has anyone sucessfully replicated the rough sawn marks from a mill on 4S 1x's?
thanks
rich
has anyone sucessfully replicated the rough sawn marks from a mill on 4S 1x's?
thanks
rich
Notre on your dimensions due to tech issues, but use a HSS saw blade with set teeth. Cheers
Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.
Haven't tried it myself, but I'e seen where one tooth on the saw blade is bent out slightly. That will leave saw blade marks.
or do you mean sandblasted or pressure washed?
if your width dimension is anything less than your full depth of cut for whatever saw your using (if its a 10" tablesaw, 12" table saw, etc) buying a cheap blade an knocking a tooth or two out of line with a pair of vise grips will simulate it for that small of a blade. But circle sawn wood is generally sawn on large diameter blades/mills (40"+). That radius may be hard to mimic if you are really wanting to be accurate.
If you take one of the leveling feet off of a bandsaw, you'll get really close. Unbalance the wheels at the same time and you're about there.
Better get ready to hang on though!
Yep, I did it. I saw a trestle table in a book, " In the Craftsman Style", with a rough sawn texture and the author stated that that was how they did it. I had to try it.
They neglected the part about hanging on.
Last edited by Mike Cutler; 10-11-2017 at 7:59 PM.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Do any mills still use the vertical crosscut saws?
What kind of mill? Bandsaw mill, circular sawmill? Rough sawn marks on the edges of the boards, the faces, or both? If possible, I'd start with thicker stock and run it through a sawmill.
JKJ
Years ago we built large (2 11 x 14) gates for a video production. The outer cedar was planed with a Festool hand planer with a scalloping blade, making the surface like it had been hand carved. Very good effect.