Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Refinishing railing

  1. #1

    Refinishing railing

    Bought a new house I'm starting a remodel. The railing on the stairs is typical honey oak, and I'd like to refinish it so everything is white with dark railings:



    I'd like to refinish to this:



    I still have to test the finish, but I suspect it is lacquer due to it being glossy, thick, and in some places has hairline cracks:



    I understand the best course of action is to sand to bare wood, but time constraints have me considering finishing over the lacquer. Assuming it is lacquer, tell me if this is reasonable. For the base, spindles, banisters: scuff sand, seal with dewaxed shellac, prime, then typical interior paint like Sherwin Williams Cashmere. For the railing: scuff sand, then shellac with Transtint until it is the shade I like, clear coat with lacquer.

    Does this sound reasonable? Do the hairline cracks require a full sanding to wood?

  2. #2
    I agree the dark rails and newells look much better. Mahogany rail is nice! ,but not neccesary. Many were originally inexpensive wood with a "varnish stain". Some were painted solid dark and some were dark with lighter streaks. Dark is the important thing.

  3. #3
    So you think my rails are mahogany? And varnished, not lacquered?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    I wouldn't try to finish over those cracks; just asking for trouble sooner or later. I would strip it with chemical stripper, like KleanStrip Premium. If it's lacquer it will come off really fast. If it's varnish it will just take a little longer. In any case, that's the best way to get it to bare wood, then just a light sanding will make it ready for refinishing. I built this balustrade for a client a few years ago, maple balusters and oak handrails. The client finished it using all SW's products. I can't remember which primer and paint, but I'm pretty sure the stain was just their normal consumer grade stuff and the topcoat was OB poly.



    I like toners using shellac and Transtint a lot, but they are not easy to wipe or brush on; spraying is far easier but not really practical on your railings. I would either start with Transtint in water or DNA or just go with stain directly. If you like the Pottery Barn look, GF's gel stains are worth strong consideration.

    I would not use lacquer for the railing finish. Varnish is much more durable. Arm-R-Seal or a similar wiping varnish is easy to apply on railings and very durable.

    John

  5. #5
    They are NOT mahogany. Mahogany is the "gold standard "; and has such a silky nice feel with just oil or wax. Again ,dark is what is needed.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southwestern CT
    Posts
    1,392
    Cracks ... they are really a problem. They have a tendency to telegraph through any finish applied over them. Like John says ... strip it. If you decide to go the chemical route I put poly plastic over the stripper to slow down the evaporation and it dramatically improves efficiency.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  7. #7
    The crackling ,I think, means the finish on it now is brittle. Sharp scrapers would probably take it off ,no fumes,just dust.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    I like toners using shellac and Transtint a lot, but they are not easy to wipe or brush on; spraying is far easier but not really practical on your railings. I would either start with Transtint in water or DNA or just go with stain directly.

    John
    By applying just the dye directly, you mean to bare wood, correct? Since it is only those flat parts of the banister that are cracked, that would be as far as I would go removing any finish to bare wood. The rest would just be scuff sanded lacquer, which is why I figured the best way to apply the dye was with the shellac seal coats.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon Thill View Post
    By applying just the dye directly, you mean to bare wood, correct? Since it is only those flat parts of the banister that are cracked, that would be as far as I would go removing any finish to bare wood. The rest would just be scuff sanded lacquer, which is why I figured the best way to apply the dye was with the shellac seal coats.
    That's not a good idea. You would need to strip all the finish on the newel posts, and any other parts that have cracks in the finish, in order to get a uniform color when you refinish it. Frankly, I would strip everything to bare wood, whether or not the finish is damaged. It's just not that hard and then you have a clean slate to work with, and more options in how to refinish it.

    Toners are great when you can spray; very difficult to use when you can't. Try it on some piece of scrap that is finished with lacquer or varnish to simulate your balustrade.

    John

  10. #10
    Just remembered that the posts would be painted, so my confusion is moot. The hand rails all are fine though, and those would be where I would use dyed shellac. But you don't think that will work well without spraying? Hmmm...

  11. #11
    Would shellac seal coats allow me to apply something like Minwax Polyshades to the hand rails?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon Thill View Post
    Just remembered that the posts would be painted, so my confusion is moot. The hand rails all are fine though, and those would be where I would use dyed shellac. But you don't think that will work well without spraying? Hmmm...
    As I mentioned before, try it on some scrap finished like railings to see if you can do it to your satisfaction.

    Yes, if you apply Sealcoat to the railings you would be able to apply Polyshades on top w/o bonding issues. Rattle can shellac is dewaxed and would make it easier to get a uniform coating.

    John

  13. #13
    Thanks everyone, I think I have a plan forward!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •