Applying Watco Butcher Block Oil - does this sound right?

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi folks,
I decided to try Watco on a butcher block instead of my usual straight mineral oil. I'm having trouble getting it to go on "nicely". It gets very sticky and also forms globs in a detail I've put around the edge. Finally, it's taking far longer to dry than the 6 hrs the instructions predict.

I called Watco (Rustoleum, actually - they must own the brand). The guy at Watco and I concluded that I was putting on way too much at a time. (I was laying it on like danish oil and letting it soak in.) He said to rub on very light coats and it will lay down fine and not get sticky. Sort of like wiping on shoe polish.

Does this sound right? Will two light coats sufficiently protect this maple top? I expect my Mom to use it a lot.

I'm feeling both dumb and frustrated and I could use a check on what this guy told me.

Thanks for your help!
Fred

[Andy Giddings]

According to their website this is a Tung Oil Alkyd with Mineral Spirits as a Solvent. No experience with the product but I would at least try out their advice as you've started. Product gets good reviews on Amazon (although one user reports the solids "congealed over time") with users typically putting on 3 coats with no maintenance (hard to believe for something subject to cutting).

Whenever I've finished a board, I've always soaked the board with straight mineral oil until it has difficulty soaking in. Then I heat up a Beeswax/oil combo, pour a little on the board and rub it in with a shop towel to give an even. glossy coat. For maintenance I use normal Mineral Oil about once a week for a few weeks then once a month depending on the amount of use. Oil to Wax ratio is 4 or 5:1

[Sam Murdoch]

PLEASE IGNORE THE FOLLOWING. I am writing about a different product . Sorry!

Applying Watco should be as easy as applying mineral oil - easier, as it is not to thick. Wipe it on with a rag - or pour it on then wipe off. The key is not to let it sit for too long (15 minutes is pushing the limit) before you wipe off the excess. You should be left with a sealed top with no puddles. You can add multiple coats depending on the porosity of the wood. There is a point of saturation at which more finish is just laying on itself and Watco as a penetrating oil serves no purpose laying on itself - it will just remain soft and sticky.

Watco would not be my 1st choice as a cutting board oil. It is not food compatible. Makes a great finish on lots of projects that do not require a hard film for protection but I think there are better choices for food prep surfaces than a mineral spirits based oil. If you intend to keep with the Watco in this case - wipe off the surface with mineral spirits to remove most of the residue - sand well to take off the rest and return to a nice smooth wood surface (with just a hint of oil having penetrated) and then reapply with light wipe on coats. For sanding WATCO and other finishes I highly recommend Mirka Abranet sanding screens - minimal clog - compared to any other sanding products I have ever used - and excellent surface prep.

[Steve Schoene]

This is not Watco Danish Oil, which is a oil/varnish mix, and has much different application methods than given on the Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish. The Butcher Block Finish calls for applying light wipe on coats but does not mention wiping off excess. To me this suggests this is really a fast drying wiping varnish. It says is dry enough to recoat after six hours. That's why it vou could get globs if not removed immediately during application. You can't wait a bit for penetration like you would with an oil/varnish mix.
I

[Sam Murdoch]

This is not Watco Danish Oil, which is a oil/varnish mix, and has much different application methods than given on the Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish. The Butcher Block Finish calls for applying light wipe on coats but does not mention wiping off excess. To me this suggests this is really a fast drying wiping varnish. It says is dry enough to recoat after six hours. That's why it vou could get globs if not removed immediately during application. You can't wait a bit for penetration like you would with an oil/varnish mix.
I

Sorry for my misinformation - I had not heard of a Watco Butcher Block oil.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys! Sounds like light coats is correct.

Sam, no problem Sir. Thanks for trying to help me out.

Fred

[Ted Calver]

I use this product on my end grain cutting boards. I flood it on and let it sit for a couple of hours. It's so thin that on a 1" thick board the product will often wick entirely through the board on the first application. Then I flip it over, reapply and let it sit for a day. I repeat the process one more time then let the board sit for a few days before applying a coat of polymerized walnut oil/beeswax paste. This gives it a nice soft sheen. My theory is that the butcher block finish fills the pores of the wood and, in combination with the beeswax/oil minimizes the chance of moisture penetrating the wood. I have not had any trouble with the finish gumming up.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Ted. The stuff I have is heavy/thick, like mineral oil. I thought about thinning it but was concerned about contamination the top with toxins.

Fred

[Sam Murdoch]

Fred - at the risk of overstating what you know - keep in mind that Ted's techniques is for "END GRAIN" cutting boards - not just boards laid up like a table top.

[Ted Calver]

Thanks Ted. The stuff I have is heavy/thick, like mineral oil. I thought about thinning it but was concerned about contamination the top with toxins.

Fred

Fred, The stuff I have is very thin. Not at all viscous. I wonder if we talking about the same stuff? Mine is a couple of years old. Maybe they changed the product?
Watco.jpg

[Frederick Skelly]

Fred, The stuff I have is very thin. Not at all viscous. I wonder if we talking about the same stuff? Mine is a couple of years old. Maybe they changed the product?
Watco.jpg

Yeah Ted, that's it. I'm guessing you're right and that they changed it. I wish it was thinner - it would sure be easier to use. The instructions advise against thinning it, so I'm guessing there's a reason for it to have this much viscosity. I may call them back and ask!

Thanks for following up.
Fred

[Bill Adamsen]

Perhaps warm up both block and finish (15°-20°F). I use a product by Howard and find that warming it dramatically reduces the viscosity.

[Frederick Skelly]

Perhaps warm up both block and finish (15°-20°F). I use a product by Howard and find that warming it dramatically reduces the viscosity.

Thanks for that idea Bill. I'll try that!
Fred

[Frederick Skelly]

I wanted to close out this thread by saying that when I put it on very lightly, the Watco Butcher Block Oil went on just fine and laid down nicely. I just put the final coat on. I'll let it dry and then mount the to to the base. I'll post pictures afterward.

Thanks to everyone who responded here!
Fred