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Thread: My first (and probably last) drink from the green well

  1. #46
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    Used with the hardwood blade, this is one pass (not multiple cuts)

    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Dowell View Post
    **update** - The saw has returned to me.

    Well, I can't be sure what makes one of these a "lemon". But, unless it is the armature and bearings, pretty sure it's more of the same.
    Attachment 368740
    Dont get me on how our kapex dies every 6 - 8 months
    Carpe Lignum

  3. #48
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    Well, I recently found the AvE on You tube did this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oezp-_DcUgg on the Festool T55. He definitely does an interesting review. Dan

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Rude View Post
    Well, I recently found the AvE on You tube did this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oezp-_DcUgg on the Festool T55. He definitely does an interesting review. Dan
    Those videos have been floating around several forums for years. Like everything else, The Festool lovers say he doesn't understanding engineering. The Festool haters say that's why they don't own one. The conversation goes nowhere as usual.
    Last edited by Cary Falk; 09-30-2017 at 10:25 AM. Reason: correct spelling

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    Those videos have been floating around several forums for years. Like everything else, The Festool lovers say he doesn't understanding engineering. The Festool haters say that's why they don't own one. The conservation goes nowhere as usual.
    Amen. It is the internet, after all ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Used with the hardwood blade, this is one pass (not multiple cuts)

    Brian

    What is a "hardwood blade"?
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  7. #52
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    Better stated it is the ripping blade, 12 Tooth. Works great. The saw does seem overstretched by ripping solid woods with the 48t, even woods thinner than 3/4". I typically use this blade for all ripping (regardless of thickness) and use the 48t for cross cutting under 1"~ and for plywood.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #53
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    Talking

    Btw Festool has always struck me as being the mobile cabinetshop moreso than anything else. I use it in the shop becuase I like the quality of dust collection and the relatively quieter tools, but they have always seemed to prioritize those things over ultimate power with exception to a few tools geared toward timber work.

    My shop is in my home and so quiet is important, if that means I have to be very careful about how I cut them I do so. For instance when crosscutting 8/4 white oak with the Kapex I will take a scoring pass or two before completing the cut. Why overstretch the tool? I know I didn't buy a 10hp table saw when I bought the Kapex.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  9. #54
    The first thing I noticed on the Festool document, well after the Armature/Bearings anyway, was the alignment line item. If that was not just a check, but an adjustment, that could account for the issue. A blade not aligned with the direction of travel/guide rail would be a real issue. Kind of like a table saw with the blade not parallel with the fence and/or the table slot.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Better stated it is the ripping blade, 12 Tooth. Works great. The saw does seem overstretched by ripping solid woods with the 48t, even woods thinner than 3/4". I typically use this blade for all ripping (regardless of thickness) and use the 48t for cross cutting under 1"~ and for plywood.
    Brian

    That's what I thought. It's a fairly aggressive blade.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  11. #56
    All I want to say though its been said is that proper blades make all the difference in the world.

    I put a "plywood" blade on my worm drive thinking it would just melt through the ply I was cutting. It was an 80t or 90t blade. Having only ever used standard 24t and maybe a 44t on it over the years (rough framing) I mistakenly thought this "plywood" blade held some magical properties...

    I made one very agonizingly slow cut and I can't even remember the quality of the cut. Didn't care, it was for a work bench. Put my GP blade back on and went back to work.

    Same deal with trying to resaw with a 3/8" 6-8tpi blade over a 1/2" 3tpi blade. The difference is night and day.


    That Makita may not be as pretty or as "finished" but it can cut damn near anything.
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  12. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Dowell View Post
    Then, he proceeds to tell me that with this blade, I can only rip 4ft or so of stock, and that I need -wait for it.....- a different blade! Yep, I need a 12 tooth ripping blade for any rip over 4ft long...
    OK, so bear with me, Mike, if I seem dumb. Was he saying the saw with the stock blade is only rated for ripping 48" of 7/8" lumber before the motor goes into overload? Forgive me for being dumbfounded, but I'm an electrician and I've worked with motors and wires and overloads since Nixon was in office.

    I realize the average extension cord is 16AWG and maybe that's why the CS dude was cautioning against extension cords. Maybe they have been told to tell everyone NO EXTENSION CORDS!!! so someone doesn't run 200' of 16AWG to their wood shed and plug in a $660 track saw and expect it to work.

    But the idea any CS agent comes up with a particular distance a saw is allowed to be run is pretty.....

    Oh, never mind.

    BTW, I had the same saw as you and returned it within the 30 day NQA time. I ended up buying a Dewalt. It struggled through 5/4 hard maple. I bought a Freud rip blade and it was smooth as butter. FWIW, the Dewalt, with a 4' and 8' track was $660.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  13. #58
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    Just out of curiosity, shouldn't a track saw come with a generic ripping blade? Or is the blade supplied for plywood?

  14. #59
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    I bought a TS75, someone at the factory put in too long of a stud in the anti splinter deally, first plunge the blade hit the bolt. They sent me a new saw, blade and track. Still, I bought it for a job and had to wait.

    My 125 electronic sander lasted 6 months, just made a funny noise. Sent it in several months ago and have not heard a word yet, need to call.

    Domino works all right, but has some annoying features like the fence step. Should be a scale with an adjuster like on the Dewalt Biscuit joiner. I don't do things with standard thicknesses so am always having to fiddle because no scale.

    I own a few more, and I find them to be gimmicky, stuff that gets in the way. I do like the little suitcase vac I have mounted on the ceiling, cool little unit.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew whicker View Post
    Just out of curiosity, shouldn't a track saw come with a generic ripping blade? Or is the blade supplied for plywood?
    Given that the likely majority use for track-saws overall is for working with sheet goods, it's not surprising that a blade provided by a track-saw manufacturer would also likely be something more suited to that purpose than for ripping solid stock. Festool for sure takes that approach with the default blade while offering other blade options for other purposes. (there are also third party blades available that are compatible) They may supply a different blade with the new construction focused saw/track combos, but I haven't checked the specifications.

    Even my 1970s era orange B&D circular saw rarely was ever asked to do any ripping of solid stock and the blades I've used are more general purpose/cross-cut oriented. Again, I haven't researched it, but rip-optimized blades for hand-held circular saws in general are likely much slimmer pickings than the general purpose and sheet stock focused options.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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