Moderator
I also believe that it was a defective saw--mine has never behaved badly like that, but agree with the blade advise. I don't agree with the "don't use an extension cord" thing, but will say that it's an electrical fact that extension cords should always be as short as practical and also be sized appropriate for the length to avoid power issues when the amperage draw goes up under load.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Member
Well, I've taken a lot of lashings here over the blade thing. So, I will buy a couple more blades.Originally Posted by Jim Becker
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Sometimes the best solution to morale problems is just to fire all of the unhappy people.
Contributor
Mike
You're not the first person to use the wrong blade, and you definitely will not be the last. It also won't be last time you use the wrong blade, even though the correct one is hanging on the wall. BTDT.
As I stated earlier, I did the same thing, and I have three dedicated Festool blades. Rip, Crosscut and ply.
I also maintain that the blade was not your only issue.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Contributor
Lee Valley still has their special buy 15' 12 gauge cord at $8.50. I have a couple and another couple on the way.
Contributor
I would have expected the supplied blade to cut that poplar. Like others said, something is wrong with that saw.
If you have a set of calipers, you might check the front and rear edges of the blade- distance between the blade and a fixed part of the saw that aligns with the track.
i have a Makita track saw and it's proven useful. It might be a tad bit more powerful than your TS55 but these cute shouldn't be a problem with a stock blade.
Member
I also believe the saw must have been defective. I did over-heat mine once, whilst trying to trim a 30 ft length of decking from 1 1/2" thick blackbutt which is about the same hardness as your Mesquite and about twice as hard as black walnut, with the blade that came with the saw. It actually got about 15 ft through before it stopped. 15min later it was fine. I switched to a cheap bosch ripping blade and it went through the rest like butter.
Member
This entire thread could have been avoided if you used the proper blade to begin with. Cutting material with this saw is no different than using a table saw, band saw, or any cutting tool that has teeth. The physics remain consistent.
I've had to use my TS55 on jobsites before to rip a straight edge with their stock blade. I made light passes and made it through just fine.
Your rant is equivalent to hearing guys complain that a trim router spinning at 22000rpm with an old HSS bit keeps burning the maple. :face palm:
-Lud
Contributor
There is something wrong with your saw. Popular is 1/2 the hardness of Birch. Baltic birch plywood is layers of birch with glue. A lot of people cut Baltic birch plywood with the TS55. We are talking 7/8" popular not 2" hard maple. The saw should have cut it with ease no matter what the blade. If you couldn't cut pine there is an issue. You can cut that with a spoon. You are right in expecting more out of Festool. I'm not a Festool hater, I have a Domino.
Moderator
It may very sell seem like that...sometimes folks get a bit "passionate" in their responses. But just like with our bigger, stationary machinery, the right blade for the job can make a big difference. The OEM blade on the Festool saws is generally best for sheet goods and other light general cutting. The tooth count and grind is optimized for that purpose. It's not the best for rip cuts in solid stock when the thickness increases and it's definitely not efficient for general carpentry "rougher" cutting. I actually still use my 1979 vintage orange circular saw for that kind of thing... LOL
I'd actually be curious about what the OEM supplied blade is for the newer, construction focused saws that Festool recently brought out, given it's aimed at different work than the original track saws... I don't know if anyone here has purchased one of those, however, and can comment.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Member
**update** - The saw has returned to me.
Well, I can't be sure what makes one of these a "lemon". But, unless it is the armature and bearings, pretty sure it's more of the same.
IMG_0243.JPG
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Sometimes the best solution to morale problems is just to fire all of the unhappy people.
Contributor
Look on the bright side, rip blades are cheaper than crosscut!
Contributor
My first, and probably only Festool purchase...
Member
Mike, in any event you need to change your avatar
I don’t know the answer and can’t be of any help. I’m just floored how many are sure your using it wrong, the blade is wrong, the cord is wrong, technique is wrong etc etc. How can ANY circular saw, with any blade, with 100’ extension cord, not complete that task? Maybe not do it well, or fast, but get it done? We are talking about a heavy 3/4” piece of poplar.
My vote would have to be a rare defective saw, how can it not be? People love those saws, something isn’t right.
You have only used it a half dozen times in a couple of years. Try it once when it comes back “as is” and see if it meets expectations. If not you have it back factory approved and ready to go and sell it to somebody who knows how to use it, has all the right blades, and doesn’t own an extension cord for 80% of what you paid new. Take that money and buy that Lie Nielsen shooting plane, it won’t dissappoint. Change your avatar to that, done.
Your gut has to be telling you it shouldn’t be this complicated.
Contributor
Mike
Did they replace anything?
The armature is pretty much the guts of any circular saw.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Contributor
Did you get your saw back? What did Festool say was wrong?
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