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Thread: Moving/transporting a 15" planer

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Griswold Connecticut
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    6,927
    Quote Originally Posted by John Pariseau View Post
    Ok, thank you all for the suggestions. Pickup is Friday late afternoon.

    What did I get myself into???
    You got yourself into a new, and fun experience.
    Go slow and everything should work out well.

    Good luck
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
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    3,655
    That's basically the same as mine, which I've moved several times. Take the DC port and extension tables off, flop it onto its side on a piano dolly and roll it on a ramp onto your trailer. I'd slide it off the dolly at that point. Tie it down thoroughly and you're good to go. As top heavy as it is you'd be asking for trouble to move it upright. These are a beast to move without help.

    Or hire a mover-- that's safer for your body, and machine if you find someone competent.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
    Posts
    194
    Move moved to Saturday - threat of rain in the morning, and knowing Michigan's weather, I don't trust it to follow the forecast. Plus I was concerned about traffic on the way home (rush hour). Will take pictures and post what I end up doing.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    194
    All set! Leaving in a few hours, but this is what I packed:





    Dolly is to move the crane on/off the trailer. I stored anything removable inside the car, as it lessened the weight and makes it easier to maneuver.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
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    I think you've got it pretty well covered.
    Next time I need to move something heavy, I'm calling you!
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,529
    You look well prepared! Nothing worse than showing up and saying to yourself “I wish I brought X tool with me”. You’re probabaly mobing it right now - make sure to let us know how it went.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
    Posts
    194
    Success! I forgot the 2" foam board (of which I have a ton of scrap left over), but I suspect it made the trip without damage. I lowered the bed all the way until it touched the cast iron base. I did get a little help - my brother couldn't go with me, but the owner, his son and one of his friends happened to be conveniently there and helped me guide the planer into the car while it was lifted up.

    Some observations:

    It has three belts - one was broken (but somehow it was able to plane the test boards). They are marked "M50" - I looked it up, is this pretty much a standard vbelt, or should I bring one in to a lawnmower shop to see if they can match it? Do I replace the other two at the same time?

    Ton of mouse droppings inside the chip exhaust area. He said it wasn't used for over 6 years.

    Not much rust, but a little in a few places - surface rust where the paint was scraped, a little bit on the bed, and the upright posts. Really light, though, and should be sandable/scotch brightable.

    My only concern is how "difficult" it is to crank the height adjustment. It isn't impossible, but requires two hands (remember, I'm a wimp). There is a tension adjuster below the planer for the chain, the screws threads need some light TLC, and there has to be some sort of gear that makes the right angle. So, many moving parts, and it could be any one of them.

    I couldn't take any pictures at his place - my hands at that point were greasy, and the goal was to load it and head home.





    All in all this cost me a total $380 - $200 for the planer, and $180 for the lift, I'm returning the straps as I never opened them up. Oh, and a tank of gas.
    Last edited by John Pariseau; 09-30-2017 at 5:37 PM.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
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    6,927
    Nice!!!

    Transporting the planer in your SUV negated the use of the foam board. Your shocks and springs did a better job any way.

    Clean it up, hit it liberally with some WD-40, or Aero Kroil, put a light grease on that chain and bed raise mechanism and you're good to go.
    You should probably replace all of the V belts at once. If they've been sitting for 6 years, they're probably dry rotting and have" taken a set", which could induce vibration.
    A worm gear makes the right angle transition. It's more than likely part of the casting the hand wheel is attached too. On my Jet, that's what makes the transition.

    Well done, and Congrat's on your new planer.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    194
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cutler View Post
    Nice!!!

    Transporting the planer in your SUV negated the use of the foam board. Your shocks and springs did a better job any way.

    Clean it up, hit it liberally with some WD-40, or Aero Kroil, put a light grease on that chain and bed raise mechanism and you're good to go.
    You should probably replace all of the V belts at once. If they've been sitting for 6 years, they're probably dry rotting and have" taken a set", which could induce vibration.
    A worm gear makes the right angle transition. It's more than likely part of the casting the hand wheel is attached too. On my Jet, that's what makes the transition.

    Well done, and Congrat's on your new planer.
    That's what I was hoping - the shocks on my trailer are very springy but too stiff for a smooth ride, and the element (though @200K miles) rides smoothly. I really didn't like the idea of putting it in the trailer.

    The chain has a thick goopy grease - yellowish. I don't really know my greases, do I just go to the store and look for something called "light grease"? Should I take apart the gearing by the wheel and clean it out?

    I went over the bottom half with a rag before I brought it into the workshop. It was covered in greasy-sawdust. Cleaned up pretty nicely. Both the motor and mfg plate date it to 1990, by a company called "Transpower".

    Long term I'm not too sure I'll keep it - the scale of work I plan on doing really fits my DW734, but this should get me through my siding crisis.

  10. #40
    That looks like a great planer, bet you will decide to keep it before you are finished.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,529
    Nice work, and a great price, and it came with an engine hoist! Glad you were prepared to do it solo, as you couldn’t plan on help.

    Re: chain. I’d leave it on, degrease the bejesus out of it, dry it with a rag, spray some lube on it and call it good.

    Make sure the two lock knobs on the left side of the planer are loose. They lock the table for planing and if they’re not loose it’ll be hard to move up and down.

    Run the table all the way down, clean the exposed parts of the 4 posts with wd40 and a scotch brite, runnthe table up and do the same. Spray some lube and see if that helped.

    Also, adjust the bed rollers below the table (they cause nothing but trouble and snipe) and clean and lube the tables with something like Boshield.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
    Posts
    194
    Thank's for the tips! Bed lock was loose. I took apart the control handle:



    That glob of grease was dried out and stiff - the grease in the gear was still loose. Not too sure if that too should be cleaned and lubed with something lighter? If you have specific product recommendations for the grease, I'd appreciate it.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
    Posts
    194
    Ok! I WD-40'd the columns with a scotch brite pad, used some 3-in-1 to lube them. Cleaned the threads with WD-40 as well. Just that alone made the handle easier to turn, I can now move it with two hands on the black handle and not the wheel. Would white lithium grease work well on the upright threads and chain?

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    9,889
    Is the chain you are talking about just for adjustment? if so any light grease would be fine. If it is a drive chain you need better input then I can give.
    The bearing shown is shielded not sealed so it is probably full of dust and dry grease. I would dry the sliding surfaces off with thinner, let dry then use a dry lube like graphite spray. Any oil or grease will collect dust and turn into grinding compound.
    While you have it apart and clean try to wiggle all the bearings. If you feel any movement they need replacing. This includes bed rollers.
    Bill

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE MI
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    194
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Is the chain you are talking about just for adjustment? if so any light grease would be fine. If it is a drive chain you need better input then I can give.
    The bearing shown is shielded not sealed so it is probably full of dust and dry grease. I would dry the sliding surfaces off with thinner, let dry then use a dry lube like graphite spray. Any oil or grease will collect dust and turn into grinding compound.
    While you have it apart and clean try to wiggle all the bearings. If you feel any movement they need replacing. This includes bed rollers.
    Bill
    Height adjustment chain at the bottom. The owners manual says to use "oil" in the gearbox, but doesn't specify what oil. And to change it yearly. The booklet is light on what I like to call "details".

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