Moving/transporting a 15" planer

[John Pariseau]

I am exploring all options here - I'm getting two estimates from movers to put the planer on my trailer, but am trying to figure out whether or not I can do it myself.

Here's the planer:



The owner estimates it is somewhere between 300 and 500lbs. Any guesstimates for a 15" x 8" planer? 3HP motor if that helps. I'd remove the accessory rollers on either side.

My trailer is this one:



The owner of the planer suggested laying it flat, with two 4x4s on either side of the belt guard. The oil-filled gearbox is on the other side.

Thoughts?

[John Pariseau]

If I could safely tip it on its side against my ramp/gate, I could winch it up and into the trailer bed.

[Geoff Crimmins]

I had to move a Grizzly planer of similar design. I removed the infeed and outfeed tables as well as the belt guard and belts. I rolled the planer up behind my truck and then removed the bolts holding the planer to the base. Then a friend and I lifted the planer into the bed of the truck. It was kind of heavy but we managed to do it. Then we put the base into the back of the truck and tied everything down so it wouldn't slide around. The black sliding rods in the planer are handles for lifting it. If you want to put the planer in your trailer you might be able to lift it with an engine hoist and then back your trailer under it. Then strap it down with plenty of straps. You also might be able to put plywood over the ramp and pull the planer up with a come-a-long. You'd probably want a couple of friends to help guide it and ensure it doesn't tip over. I wouldn't try to tip it on its side without some kind of hoist to support it.

--Geoff

[Mike Cutler]

Doubtful that you can do it alone without an engine hoist. Two big guys, maybe. A furniture dolly would work also, but you'll need at least a little help.
The planer is going to weigh 500lbs.

Me personally, I wouldn't lay it down. I'd strap it to a furniture dolly, pull it up into the trailer, and leave it upright. You'll have to get rid of the mobile cart it's on though. You may need something to cover that open ramp on the trailer.
Lower the planer bed onto some 2" foam board, and strap it to all four corners of the trailer with ratcheting tie downs, with it still on the dolly. Take the roller beds off also. Those bars extending out, believe it or not, are to lift it up. I think getting it off that mobile cart is the biggest obstacle you'll need to overcome.

I moved a 900lb commercial washer this way.

Any way to take a friend with you? Or can the seller at least help you a little bit.

[John Pariseau]

Me personally, I wouldn't lay it down. I'd strap it to a furniture dolly, pull it up into the trailer, and leave it upright. You'll have to get rid of the mobile cart it's on though. You may need something to cover that open ramp on the trailer.

Do you think I could strap it to the ramp with the ramp upright? I've done that with lighter equipment, but I'd be worried about side to side movement.

Lower the planer bed onto some 2" foam board, and strap it to all four corners of the trailer with ratcheting tie downs, with it still on the dolly. Take the roller beds off also. Those bars extending out, believe it or not, are to lift it up. I think getting it off that mobile cart is the biggest obstacle you'll need to overcome.

I'm not quite sure I understand. Are you saying put the foam below the bed? And put the straps on top of the bed? Just trying to figure out the configuration.

I moved a 900lb commercial washer this way.

Any way to take a friend with you? Or can the seller at least help you a little bit.

I don't really have any friends that could help - the only one in the right range for helping has back issues.

[John Pariseau]

I had to move a Grizzly planer of similar design. I removed the infeed and outfeed tables as well as the belt guard and belts. I rolled the planer up behind my truck and then removed the bolts holding the planer to the base. Then a friend and I lifted the planer into the bed of the truck. It was kind of heavy but we managed to do it. Then we put the base into the back of the truck and tied everything down so it wouldn't slide around. The black sliding rods in the planer are handles for lifting it. If you want to put the planer in your trailer you might be able to lift it with an engine hoist and then back your trailer under it. Then strap it down with plenty of straps. You also might be able to put plywood over the ramp and pull the planer up with a come-a-long. You'd probably want a couple of friends to help guide it and ensure it doesn't tip over. I wouldn't try to tip it on its side without some kind of hoist to support it.

--Geoff

That's what I wanted to do - slide it into the back of my Element. But the bolts are a bit difficult to reach because of the cabinet below, and I don't really have anyone that could help shift it into the car.

[Mike Cutler]

John

I would lower the planer bed onto foam board, to the point that the foam board is compressed slightly, to protect it from vibration and bouncing around. It's a lot of weight. Don't put any pressure on the bed from a tie down strap. The foam is just to protect the bed. It also lowers the center of gravity during moving.

That's a pretty light duty trailer. Me personally, I would want the weight centered over the axle, or just slightly forward, so that the trailer would be more stable. Putting 500lbs that far behind the axle of a trailer that small could be a problem. Moving it back decreases your tongue weight on the hitch. I would want to know that the weight was on the hitch.
I would run four ratcheting straps from the four posts that support the rollers on top of the machine to the four corners of the trailer. One per each corner. I would then run another strap right over the top to stop it from being able to bounce. This way any movement, or inertia, is mitigated in all three axes. ( Is that the right word for the plural of axis???)

It's easy for me to say this, because I always have this equipment in my truck, and I've been doing it for many years, but I know that it's not easy for folks that don't do it a lot.
There is no shame in hiring a mover to do it for you. Especially if you can't get some help.

[Jared Sankovich]

Buy a Harbor freight engine hoist, you will find lots of uses for it after. I throw mine in the back of my truck when I buy equipment light enough to load in a half ton pickup but too heavy to pick up with 2 people.

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[Matt Day]

Agreed on the HF hoist - got mine new for like $175, the 2 ton model. It’d be perfect for this job. You can unbolt the business end from the base which would make it smoother and wouldn’t have to worry about the weight being so high up during transport. I’d much rather buy a useful tool than pay movers.

When I bought mine we kept it together (sans out/in fees rollers) and tilted it down to into the trunk of my Forester and slid it in. It worked but was a bad idea as it’s very top heavy and could easily get away from you.

If I were to do it again, without an engine hoist and my Forester, I’d unbolt the business end from the stand and slide it down into the car, using 2x6’s.

[Bill Dufour]

If you lay that on the nose or tail so the table ends touch anything you risk breaking the table supports. I would only haul it upright or maybe on it's side. Many bandsaws are ruined by lifting from the table
You will have to drain the oil before tilting if the gears are in a oil bath. If it has an oil bath consider adding a short nipple and pipe cap to make future draining neater.
I learned from my brother, a mechanic, that an old tire with no wheel makes a nice pad to set a awkward lump of iron onto in a trailer or truck bed. Think engine blocks.
Bill

[John Pariseau]

It's easy for me to say this, because I always have this equipment in my truck, and I've been doing it for many years, but I know that it's not easy for folks that don't do it a lot.
There is no shame in hiring a mover to do it for you. Especially if you can't get some help.

No - that helps! I'm at a point where I have to minimize how much I spend, and I doubt I can afford to have it delivered an hour away. I'm kind of tempted to get an engine hoist, which would cost just a little more than one quote I got. I wonder what they rent for.

[Mike Cutler]

John

An engine hoist is actually a pretty handy thing to have around. You could probably buy the aluminum version from Harbor freight and Craigslist it when you're done.

[John Pariseau]

John

An engine hoist is actually a pretty handy thing to have around. You could probably buy the aluminum version from Harbor freight and Craigslist it when you're done.

Aluminum version? They have two different models with different ship weights, but neither page mentions the material. However, one is part of a "Tool Disposal Notice" coupon sheet for $179.

[Matt Day]

Is $179 the 2 ton or the 1 ton?
I’ve never seen an aluminum version. The hoist is heavy itself by the way.

[Larry Frank]

They engine hoist is one of the best things I have gotten at HF. I do not use it very often but has really paid for itself. I have used mine several times to put things on a similar trailer. I take the ramp off the trailer when I do it and the hoist legs roll under the trailer.