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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Gainesville, GA
    Posts
    36

    Black cherry for turning

    Is Black Cherry suitable as turning wood?


  2. #2
    Heck yeah it is if it's the same wood that I call Black Cherry. (Prunus serotina) Where I live Black Cherry is also called Wild Cherry which is where Cherry lumber comes from.
    Last edited by daryl moses; 09-17-2017 at 6:40 PM.

  3. #3
    As good as it gets!! Very friendly to turn, easy to sand and finish and looks good with a bit of dye or left to turn a beautiful color in the sun.

    Left click my name for homepage link.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Chicago Heights, Il.
    Posts
    2,136
    Quote Originally Posted by John Keeton View Post
    As good as it gets!! Very friendly to turn, easy to sand and finish and looks good with a bit of dye or left to turn a beautiful color in the sun.
    And that comes from a Kentucky walnut guy. Cherry will spoil you!
    Member Illiana Woodturners

  5. #5
    Don't listen to all this nonsense.... cherry is horrible turning wood.... horrible like red ants in your underpants horrible.... you'd be happier taking a swift kick to your twig and berries than deal with that stuff....

    my solution to you is to give it all to me and I will dispose of it properly.... be afraid.... be very afraid.

    If that isn't enough warning, Ive also heard that the cell walls of black cherry is where the demon seeds of Beelzebub lay....

    in the 1970s I did some research on black cherry and my teeth fell out and hair grew in their place....

    Ive built up an immunity now, so as I said, your best bet is to give it all to me....

    better safe than sorry....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold Balzonia View Post
    Don't listen to all this nonsense.... cherry is horrible turning wood.... ...
    Ive built up an immunity now, so as I said, your best bet is to give it all to me....
    better safe than sorry....
    Hey Harold Beelzebub, er, Balzonia. You didn't say where you live but if you live near East TN and are truly willing to haul off dangerous black cherry then you might be able to solve my problem of how to dispose of it. I plan to remove a good-sized prunus serotina sometime this winter. I'll saw some into slabs and cut a bunch of turning blanks but in case there is more than I can handle your generous help would be appreciated. In addition I have the large trunk of a storm-damaged sugar maple to take down at the same time, also a problem wood.

    JKJ
    Last edited by John K Jordan; 09-18-2017 at 2:51 PM.

  7. #7
    We cut about 10 cherries down over the weekend. Someone was clearing some land and they were there, we came so the trees wouldn't just be ground up.

    The guys who were doing the clearing were terrible amateurs and at some point they decided it was taking too long, so they managed to convince the property owner to let them dump the trees in a creek instead of grinding them up (or giving them to us!) like they were supposed to. So we only got about half of them.

    Still not too bad.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,778
    I have a black cherry tree (about 25 feet tall) that has to come down soon, probably in the next few weeks. One of the main branches is leaning over my barn and its dead, the other two seem to be healthy and lean in the opposite direction. This tree has some bodacious roots, I saved several of the roots that came up months ago when I removed another tree that was close to this one...thinking about some pen blank material.

    I don't have any anchorseal and don't want to purchase any just for this tree, is there anything else I can coat the ends with that will protect them from splitting?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Outten View Post
    I don't have any anchorseal and don't want to purchase any just for this tree, is there anything else I can coat the ends with that will protect them from splitting?
    Some of the old recommendations are tar (messy), roofing sealer (messy), hot paraffin (hot and messy), aluminum paint, and several coats of oil based paint. Apparently latex paint is permeable to moisture and not worth the effort. What the other John Jordan (the famous one) recommends is don't cut the log into short pieces but leave them long. He pays someone if necessary to haul the log, puts it up off the ground, protects from sun. When ready to use he cuts off the checked portion (usually about 6") to hit fresh, green wood.

    A little AnchorSeal is good to have on hand. I bought a 55 gal drum once, sold a bunch at cost, and still have enough for years of woodturning use. If I found my self driving through Virginia I might be talked into bringing you an emergency supply!

    JKJ

  10. #10
    Some people have used white glue (elmer's / pva) apparently with some success. It's a lot cheaper and more widely available than anchorseal. Wood glue is pretty much the same thing. If you have some that's starting to go bad you might try it.
    Last edited by Bob Bouis; 09-18-2017 at 3:07 PM.

  11. #11
    JKJ - coming from Southern California to visit you in Tenn. would be a trip I'd love to make but I think I'd have a hard time convincing management (aka my wife) it was a worthwhile use of my time.... I'll look you up should I ever get out that way, though!

    Keith - one of the easiest ways I have sealed ends is with stretch wrap. Like cling wrap only smaller. Wrap the bejeezus out of the end of the log, very tightly, and its pretty well sealed up. Easy and no mess. Cheap, too

    IMG_0544.JPG
    Last edited by Harold Balzonia; 09-18-2017 at 3:44 PM. Reason: Added picture

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ambridge, PA
    Posts
    968
    The aroma make the whole shop a happy place. Have at it Harold.
    Member Turners Anonymous Pittsburgh, PA

  13. #13
    Wild cherry grows like weeds around here. Got a few over 24 inches in diameter here on the farm. A nice fine grain wood with a pleasant natural light reddish-brown hue. If you get a piece with curl it can be difficult, but normally straight grained. Common enough around here that some times the mills make skids with it. It is one of the "road kill" woods I like to use. I cut down two large ones to make way for our new house two years ago and I have some of the wood stacked to dry in the barn. I also have some large sweet cherries, (the old style, 50 ft tall and 20 to 30 inches in diameter) Haven't worked with that wood yet. Although, One has a large split and needs to come down before the end of the year. When turned green, it does have a sweet smell. Some of the wild cherries here, and especially across the river near Lancaster PA are badly affected with black knot. which causes small tumors on the branches and kills the trees.

    Unfortunately, wild cherry leaves, when dried, due to storm damaged branches, turn toxic with cyanide as they dry and can kill livestock. But when they turn naturally in the fall, they are not. So if you cut a wild cherry tree, be careful what you do with any green leaves.

  14. #14
    Cherry is a nice wood to work, generally, but when it's green it's not the easiest to cut. Not sure why, but that's been my experience.

    Our mill (~23 hp) will slice through 24" of oak easily but bogs on a 20" cherry log.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
    Posts
    20,804
    Outstanding wood to turn! Get all you can and enjoy turning it!!
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
    Become a financial Contributor today!

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