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Thread: Removing Labels from stainless tumblers! - HELP!

  1. #1
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    Removing Labels from stainless tumblers! - HELP!

    Hey all! - Need your help!
    As I had written ‘bout earlier: no sooner had I decided I would no longer take-on Cermarking “large quantities” of stainless tumblers, than a company has asked me to do 400, or so! - briefly, I’ve decided I can’t afford to say ‘no’! (started the project, today!)


    In the unpacking stage - I’m finding removing the glued on labels a super labor time intensive pain! I’m able to very slowly peel some labels off without a problem, but most are leaving a strip of paper residue; glue beneath. I’ve learned that the glue/residue can afterwards be removed using WD-40 - but, seems, not the paper residue itself. Am I gonna have to first soak ‘n hand wash the paper residue off of 400 tumblers? Any solutions you can provide, well .. will be much appreciated! - BILL (PS: Why do the companies apply their labels as they do; don't they realize it makes 'em harder to prep for engraving?)
    (Using Epilog 35W Mini 24)

  2. #2
    I do a lot of these and it does take time. We are careful to peel the labels off then clean. Acetone or orange cleaner will remove the label glue. we repack the labels after lasering the items. Some of these require as much as 2 minutes to prep for Cermark.

    Walmart is notorious for using labels of the type you are describing and I charge $1.00 extra for Walmart cups because of it.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
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  3. #3
    Goo Gone seems to work well for removing adhesive residues. I use it quite a bit.

  4. #4
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    Bill again -

    Hi again
    Thought I was clear - guess not. It’s, mostly, the paper residue I’m having trouble removing. (will try to insert a photo). I’m finding that WD-40 removes the underlying glue/residue easy enough. (Haven’t tried Goo-done, yet.) It’s that, slow ‘n careful as I am in removing the surrounding label, some of the “paper residue” is sticking to many of the tumblers! - at this point, all I can think to do is hand wash ‘em in hot, soapy water - to carefully scrub the remaining label paper off. - need a better way, if there is one! (thank heavens, this isn't happening to all of 'em, but a bunch!) Any more ideas needed! (BTW: Mike - what'd you mean that you "repack" the labels?) - guess my question if 'why"?) - some reason?
    BILL
    Attached Images Attached Images
    (Using Epilog 35W Mini 24)

  5. #5
    Run a few of them in the dishwasher as a test, bottom shelf, hottest water possible, no heat dry, no detergent. Should get most of the paper off, which should easily be digested by the dishwasher's food grinder...

    As for the adhesive, "Kleen Strip" (sold at home depot) has come out with this stuff called "painters solvent", to replace xylene and such. It is extremely aggressive with dissolving paint, melting certain plastics and on most adhesives...

    Hopefully the dishwasher will get rid of most of the paper, the solvent WILL get off the adhesive... Wear gloves, and you'll probably need 1 paper towel per cup...
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  6. #6
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    What you call paper residue is just a thin layer of paper sticking to the glue. Wet/soak it with a spray of acetone (buy a little cheap pump bottle) and both the paper and glue should disintegrate and basically wipe off.

    Edit: This is for naked stainless steel tumblers only which is what I thought the original poster was marking. You don't want to use acetone on powder coated, etc.
    Last edited by Doug Fisher; 09-14-2017 at 10:29 PM.
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  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=Kev Williams;2726690]Run a few of them in the dishwasher as a test, bottom shelf, hottest water possible, no heat dry, no detergent. Should get most of the paper off, which should easily be digested by the dishwasher's food grinder...

    Kev -
    The label on these tumblers state "Do not place in dishwasher" - hand wash. - so, this seems the only way to remove the remaining paper residue. Works, but I'm finding very time consuming, as I then need to rinse, dry - then, afterwards, wipe down each tumbler with DNA 'fore applying Cermark. (Somethin' I learned from you all.) BTW: these are the Wal-Mart brand: Ozark Trail. - (Still wondering why the manufacturers cause us this grief, when a piece of tape on the outside of the label would certainly do the job!) - BILL
    (Using Epilog 35W Mini 24)

  8. #8
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    The label is one of the reasons I switched to Polar Camel from JDS (thanks to learning about them here). Hardly any glue on the label, decent pricing, individually boxed and no stamped logo to work around. At 400 pieces the price will be very competitive with Walmart's current clearance pricing for tumblers.

    FYI, I just engraved some powder coated Walmart tumblers where the label said they were safe for the top shelf in the dishwasher.
    700mm x 500mm Ke Hui KH-7050 Laser
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  9. #9
    Bill
    I do mostly Yeti's and the labels on those and RTIC's and a couple of others come off in one piece. They have some instructions on them which is why I repack them.

    Now you see why I charge an extra dollar on Walmart stuff. I have about 30 pieces of Walmart cups to do right now and the customer removed the labels rather than pay the extra dollar.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  10. #10
    Heat gun or dishwasher.

    Mineral spirits for the residue is better than wd40

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Stearns View Post
    Kev -
    The label on these tumblers state "Do not place in dishwasher" - hand wash.
    --this is because dishwasher soap is corrosive, which is why I highlighted in bold NO DETERGENT!

    --hot water won't hurt them a bit.

    And for those who haven't tried that 'painter's solvent', it's about twice as aggressive as acetone. It starts to emulsify powdercoating almost immediately...
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 09-14-2017 at 7:36 PM.
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  12. #12
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    The heat isn't good for the vacuum seal but dishwasher soap won't do anything to stainless steel, otherwise 99% of flatware would be a corroded mess.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    --this is because dishwasher soap is corrosive, which is why I highlighted in bold NO DETERGENT!

    --hot water won't hurt them a bit.

    And for those who haven't tried that 'painter's solvent', it's about twice as aggressive as acetone. It starts to emulsify powdercoating almost immediately...

  13. #13
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    Doug mentioned Polar Camel, their earlier cups had glue the wouldn't come off easy. The last I got comes off easy if cup is over 70 degrees. Cold leaves adhesive and the walart are terrible
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  14. #14
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    My vote is for a hair dryer or moderate use of a heat gun, followed up by lacquer thinner.
    Scott
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  15. #15
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    Detergent harmful to stainless steel???

    Heat harmful to a vacuum seal???

    Please explain.
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