These look pretty decent.
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Made by Noel Liogier and can be purchased here.
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[OP]
Contributor
Tom Fidgen's new double handled Rasps
These look pretty decent.
FullSizeRender_8871ca50-486c-4ab1-85f7-6a25c910950f_1024x1024.jpg
Made by Noel Liogier and can be purchased here.
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"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Guest
Thanks for posting this. They look very useful for many applications. Have you used them?Originally Posted by Hilton Ralphs
Stan
[OP]
Contributor
No Stan, I just came across the post recently. I've been meaning to get one of Noel's rasps for ages now but seeing as I have a bunch of Bahco files and Iwasaki rasps I may just spring for one of these double ended jobbies.
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Contributor
Given the short direction of travel (1") they will clearly need more strokes. Some specialised users may be able to justify the price.
Member
Indeed.
There are two obvious concerns here: Firstly that you're getting less rasp for your money, as they cost basically as much as a much longer Liogier cabinet rasp (traditional finish). Secondly that the taper of an ordinary cabinet rasp is useful for some things, but is missing from these, so they sacrifice some versatility.
EDIT: I've always found that a rag is perfectly safe for gripping the ends of rasps.
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-14-2017 at 12:25 PM.
Member
Just a quick observation. The length of travel isn't really relevant here, because as the ad copy clearly states, the teeth are perpendicular to the normal orientation on a rasp.
I'm generally skeptical of fancy rasps, but this is a freakin' genius idea. In fact, I've thought of commissioning a tool like this, but now I don't have to. The exact application shown in the picture--making a closed tote--is what it would be brilliant for. Not so much the top of the tote, as shown in the picture, but rather the rear area, below the horn, and especially inside the closed portion. Using a normal rasp or mill-tooth file here always risks spelching, and it's tricky to keep things flat and square. Turning the teeth 90° solves that problem.
I own zero expensive rasps but I'll probably be ponying up for one of these. It's definitely a specialist tool, and not at all necessary for most woodworking, but if you have a specialized need, it might just be the ticket.
Back to witness protection now…
"For me, chairs and chairmaking are a means to an end. My real goal is to spend my days in a quiet, dustless shop doing hand work on an object that is beautiful, useful and fun to make." --Peter Galbert
Member
Good insights!
Simon
Contributor
So, instead of a spokeshave, one uses a rasp?
Member
Good point. And welcome back!
Member
People already use rasps for this sort of work (or at least I do). We currently have to either skew the rasp relative to the work (this is where right- or left-handed stitching comes into play), or use a "compound" motion wherein we push the rasp across the work while moving it along the curve. What this does is provide a specialized version that doesn't require those additional techniques.
I'm not sure I'll ever use one, and I still think it's a little expensive for the amount of rasp you get, but I'm warming to the concept.
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-14-2017 at 5:02 PM.
Contributor
I would be happy with a 15 grain choice. I would make my own handles to save a few bucks.
On a good day maybe a 13 and a 15 grain model. Already have those two in Auriou rasps.
Coming to this thread late it made me wonder if anyone had noticed the teeth are perpendicular to what is normal on a rasp. Then Steve stepped out of the shadows and provided clarity.
These would likely be great for shaped chair legs and so many other things.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
So, this is for the woodworking equivalent of draw filing? Does it leave an equivalent finish?
[OP]
Contributor
I don't think so Bruce as the teeth are oriented on the body to scrape perpendicular to the length of the body. My understanding of draw-filing metal is that the teeth on the file are essentially in parallel with the metal whilst you pull it or push it.
Not sure I'm making any sense here.
Put it another way, to draw-file using this rasp you would need to move the rasp side to side, not up and down.
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Member
No, the teeth of a conventional file are skewed about 15-20 deg. When you draw-file you skew the file by another 30 deg or so, such that the teeth are >45 deg from parallel. This is analogous to how conventional rasps have their points slightly off-axis (left/right-handedness) and then need to be further skewed when drawn to cut effectively.
There are also long-angle files made specifically for draw-filing with teeth skewed at 45 deg, and those can be held straight across the direction of movement while draw-filing. I would say that Tom Fiden's rasp is sort of the rasp equivalent of a long-angle file :-).
Member
Which would be what machinists call "lathe files."
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