Oneway coring system

[Reed Gray]

Hmm, it looks just like the standard one. I wonder what they do when it is time to sharpen it??? I will have to chat with them at the Portland Symposium. Honing perhaps?

robo hippy

[Peter Blair]

Robo, not sure if links are allowed but here is a link to the carbide cutter. Admin. Please remove this if it is inappropriate

https://oneway.ca/Part%20No.%204072%...rbide%20Cutter

[Reed Gray]

I did get an e-mail back from them saying that the cutter is identical other than material. Sharpen by honing the surfaces on a diamond plate, and they did not think lapping fluid was necessary. That would leave no burr on the cutting edges, and to me, the burr is what cuts best. I told them we need to play at the Portland Symposium...

robo hippy

[Bob Bouis]

In theory I like the idea, but I have tried honing the regular oneway cutters. The result wasn't good. I say that with the caveat that I maybe don't know what I'm doing, of course. But for me they cut way better when sharpened with an 80-grit wheel than with a hone or a fine wheel.

Maybe you could use a $10 chinese diamond disc on a mandrel of some sort or a worksharp or the like.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Carbide being a very hard and brittle material, I would expect a burr to be very difficult to achieve, and because it being brittle I would expect it to break away almost instantly.

HSS in all the different compositions, is more forgiving and tougher, a burr on that will last longer, even if that is a relatively short time.

Carbide does have to rely on its extra hard wearing material to stay sharp, maybe the best material when using it on wood with silica in it, where HSS does not keep an edge, just all IMO

[Peter Blair]

Kevin when you get your system set up you might like to take a quick look at what I did to ensure I no longer make funnels with my Oneway Coring Set.
If you are interested check out this link to my Blog.
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress...ore-laser-aid/
It is especially useful for me as I use a multitude of different chucks, each is slightly different in as much as the distance they hold the piece from the headstock.

[Bill Boehme]

I did get an e-mail back from them saying that the cutter is identical other than material. Sharpen by honing the surfaces on a diamond plate, and they did not think lapping fluid was necessary. That would leave no burr on the cutting edges, and to me, the burr is what cuts best. I told them we need to play at the Portland Symposium...

robo hippy

You can't put a bur on carbide cutters so that is why using a diamond plate the best way to put an edge on the cutters.

Tungsten carbide isn't a metal, it's a carbide (think silicon carbide grinding wheels). Tungsten carbide cutting tools are actually somewhat like a matrix grinding in the sense that tungsten carbide grains are mixed with other materials such as titanium carbide, tantalum carbide and niobium carbide to improve the properties of the material when cutting. The size of the grains is actually a fine powder ranging between about 0.5 micron to 10 microns depending on the desired grade. The "glue" that binds these materials together is powdered cobalt. The mixed powders are molded and heated to melt the cobalt "glue" to form the cutting tool.

[Reed Gray]

Well, I have yet to put that to a test, and have been told by many that it is impossible to put a burr on the carbides. I can turn a burr on stellite and tantung. I know the tantung is a cast particle metal similar to carbide, but don't know the exact differences. I will find a dull cutter eventually and give it a shot. Maybe at the AAW Symposium in Portland this year... I was told that I couldn't burnish a burr on M2 as well....

robo hippy

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Well, I have yet to put that to a test, and have been told by many that it is impossible to put a burr on the carbides. I can turn a burr on stellite and tantung. I know the tantung is a cast particle metal similar to carbide, but don't know the exact differences. I will find a dull cutter eventually and give it a shot. Maybe at the AAW Symposium in Portland this year... I was told that I couldn't burnish a burr on M2 as well....

robo hippy

I don’t agree with that stellite or all tantung metals are like carbide, but here’s some info on it if you want to get up to speed on some of it, it is quite good.

Info on tantung at page 32 - 33

https://books.google.ca/books?id=Kws...ndbook&f=false

I think this will work

[Reed Gray]

Made my head hurt trying to sort that all out..... I do know how to grind that stuff though. Of interest to me, the micro photos of stellite, tantung, and carbide were all different magnifications, so hard to compare. For me, similar means they have similar properties as in stellite and tantung will both cut for about the same amount of time before I have to go back to the grinder. The stellite seems to take a finer edge, and the tangung is a bit more coarse. Neither are as hard as the carbide, but they can be easily resharpened. So, I guess that translates as some where between M42/V10, and carbide, though I don't know how to compare edge durability. I would consider it closer to carbide than to the others.

One interesting thing to me about the stellite is that is made up there in Canada. When I first contacted them, they sent me free samples. A year or three later I wanted to purchase some, and they would only sell the cast blocks which were around $2500, and I would have to process it myself. I asked if they could put me in touch with one of the people that bought those blocks from them and they said yes, but 'it won't be today.' That was a couple of years back.... No idea of Oneway considered stellite for their tips as it would be far easier to sharpen...

robo hippy

[Bill Boehme]

I don’t agree with that stellite or all tantung metals are like carbide, but here’s some info on it if you want to get up to speed on some of it, it is quite good.

Info on tantung at page 32 - 33

https://books.google.ca/books?id=Kws...ndbook&f=false

I think this will work

Great reference book, Leo.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Kevin,
I own a set of bases fir the 20" Powermatic. I had to buy taller bases to fit my present lathe. Send me a PM if you want to discuss them.