Jointer push blocks

[mark mcfarlane]

For those of you who actually use push blocks on the jointer, what kind are you using and what do you like/dislike.

I am contemplating the MICROJIG GRR-RIP BLOCK, but wonder if there are better ones.

I do not need anything for my slider, only for the jointer.

Thanks,

[Frankie Hunt]

I have a pair of those. They are great! The rubber is very "grippy". The auto retracting heels work good. I'm very satisfied with that purchase.

[Lee Schierer]

Here is the push block that I inherited for my6" jointer. It works really well. However, you can't buy one, but it should be pretty easy to make.
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The hole near the front is for hanging it on a nail....

[Mel Fulks]

I don't always use push blocks ...but when I do I use a wood block about 3 by 4 inches with several nail points sticking out about an eighth ,and with corners and edges rounded enough to be comfortable to palm. Since I face with convex side down I want to know I've got good contact between board and machine.

[Larry Anderson]

What about sandpaper on the bottom?

[Mel Fulks]

I don't like to use sandpaper on anything that has not had all of its dressing and shaping. "Grit BAD" for sharp steel

[Darcy Warner]

I use the grriper ones. I face up to and sometimes over 24" on my 30" jointer with them. Also useful at the bandsaw

[Warren Lake]

Mels right about sandpaper around sharp knives got crap once for machining something after it was stroke sanded. Jointer I tend to have a wet sponge and just dab my fingers and hand on that for traction. Ive done a fair bit of heal of my hand on the back edge of the board as well neither are ideal. This block has tons of use on it and a few battle scars, made from a mahogany off cut. It does have stick on 80 grit auto body sand paper on the bottom of it which is not ideal. There is nothing loose left on it I took it off at first before using it sanding sideways with it but agree with Mel better if it wasnt there. Simple and easy to make from an offcut and its strong and comfortable to the hand.

I just checked my smaller block from the little jointer. no sandpaper on the bottom and its not needed, the heel on the block rests on the wood and its fine on that one.


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[Bruce Wrenn]

Woodworker's Supply used to sell a push block that was very "grippy." I make my own, similar to what has been shown already. You could glue some shelf liner from Dollar Store to bottom of shop made ones. Good location to use spray on adhesive.

[Larry Copas]

With wide heavy boards and deep cuts I want something that grips. So....I used contact cement to glue a 15/16” board to some of those cheap push blocks. Before gluing I put some drywall screws through the wood. They never ever slip, guaranteed. These are so good I should get a patent.

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I have a couple variety’s of the push blocks with the rubber soles. They get sawdust on them and don't work. They wear out....if you use them. The rubber gets hard and cracks after a few, maybe more than a few years. I'll take my push blocks over any of those fancy ones.

[Earl Rumans]

I use a pair of the GRR-RIP blocks also and really like them. I haven't had one slip on me yet.

[mark mcfarlane]

Thanks everyone, I just ordered the GRR-RIP. I appreciate the homemade ones, and someday I'll probably make one, but I have a hundred small projects to do already getting the new shop running.

[Cary Falk]

Late to the party but I like my GRRR Rip Blocks

[John K Jordan]

Late to the party but I like my GRRR Rip Blocks

Me too. Get a pair.

[glenn bradley]

Another Grr-Rip block user. Others have come and gone but these just keep going. Cheaper in the long run.