Sawtill Project

[Mark Stutz]

Some of you old timers might remember me, though I haven't posted in a long time. In 2008 I moved, packed up the shop, and didn't get to really start making anything for several years. I'm finally getting more organized and getting closer to some real wood working. I had the honor and pleasure of seeing Dave Anderson's in person many years ago, and vowed I would someday build one.[URL="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?1181-Saw-Till-is-Finished"] I couldn't find the plans I had downloaded long ago, but fortunately a search here turned them up in this thread. [URL="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?110866-Saw-Till-Pics-or-Plans&highlight=sawtill"]. I dug out enough rough sawn ash for this project and hope to get started soon.

The weak point of this design is the dovetailed back piece at the top. Dave solved the problem by resting the till on a ledge to support the weight and then attached it to the wall. I'm hoping to hang this on a wall with a french cleat. My plan is dovetail a narrow top to the sides, in typical carcass style. Think box with a 12 inch bottom and 4 inch top. Instead of dovetailing the back cross piece as shown in the drawing, I'm planning to come down about 2 inches and make a single dovetail notched to the side and screwed from the back. It will be glued to the top, and beveled on the bottom to become the french cleat.

For any of you that have built to these plans, or roughly so, will the top interfere with saw placement? I tend to overthink things at times. Is there an easier solution to the top cross piece? (Besides using an engineered wood product attached with pocket screws)

ST-Side.jpgSaw-Till-drawing.jpgST-Assembly.jpg

[Todd Stock]

No, it will not be an issue, and makes using a rabbeted frame and panel back easier (which solves the whole upper rail issue). Also eliminates the weak 'zipper' joint in original design. Mine is two bays wide versus three (joinery saws over bench in separate rack, so a dozen slots are just fine) and screws in top rail of frame-and-panel back thru spacer to joist provide plenty of support and keep the till out of the way. 28" rip no issue (28" rip and 22" panel saw sized the till and set the blade guide height), and plenty of room for saw file storage (everything from 7" down to needle files) against the rear panel and well clear of saws. Also substituted a dowel with center support for the rail to support saw handles...the original design is a dust-catcher. Suggest you mock up the rail and check your saw handles for clearance...I raised the rail a bit after a quick check on some of my saws I re-handled a few decades ago. The rabbet for the back is 1/4" x 3/4"...back is just shiplap inside M&T frame.

Quick project in cheap #2 pine and scraps...basic utility shop furniture with a couple coats of sprayed shellac. Have fun with it.

[Mark Stutz]

Todd, do you mean two screws thru the sides into the end grain oftop rail of the back, or two screw thru the top rail to hold it to the wall?

[Todd Stock]

Two screws through rail to joist - the others seen hold a spacer in place to keep the low voltage wiring behind the till from harm (basement shops with open overhead = dodging both low voltage and regular electrical and plumbing runs). Through dovetails at all four corners. The back is glued into rabbet, so no screws. Shiplapped panels are 1/4" thick...

[Todd Stock]

Might want to google 'saw till' for alternatives...tons of options and everything from a couple nails beaten into a joist to fine furniture. For me. this stuff is shop furniture, so it needs to be cheap, dependable, and do the job. If your shop IS the output of your shop, go hog-wild...leaded glass, internal LED lighting...Brazilian rosewood...sky is the limit!

[Mark Stutz]

Thanks, Todd. None of my projects seem to turn out to be quick, whether they are for the shop or not. I do like to use shop projects for building skills, and it has been way too long since I've cut dovetails. Started practicing again last night, and found I do need the practice! I like the rabbeted back, and may go that route, and just screw it directly to the wall.

[steven c newman]

side view.JPG
Current one I have, and use...

[Dave Anderson NH]

Welcome back Mark. Does this mean a reduced work schedule or total retirement?

Todd makes a good point about the bottom area being a dust catcher. His dowel setup is a great idea for solving that issue.

[Mark Stutz]

Thanks, Dave. Full retirement is a couple years away, but I've managed to cut back a little. I also have some dedicated space, with enough organized storage that I don't spend all my time moving boxes and digging thru them to et to something. Also trying to get into the shop most evenings if only for an hour or two. Definitely hope to be around more.