I ordered some extras and also made a pair of nickers from a .040 scraper that I had previous cannibalized for a scratch stock cutter. I'll make sure to set them very shallow.
Watch out for the ones for the #39-1/2.......junk, soft, almost bend when you sneeze on them...DAMHIKT.
fitted planes.jpg
Two different planes, two VERY different spurs. The #78 is the same as a #45's
That #39? flimsy.
Stanley 39.jpg
Long slots don't help much.
IMAG0009.jpgA close up of a spur on the #45
This was right after I got this plane home. Needed a bit of clean up....
I don't know how thick the Veritas nickers are, but the Stanleys were definitely 0.05" circa 1910. I know this because I initially did what you describe (fabricated a nicker from a 40-mil scraper) and I had to use 10-mil shim stock between it and the skate to get it to cut flush to the edge. I subsequently bought a 50 mil sheet of 1095 from McMaster-Carr.
Closer views?
IMG_1744 (640x480).jpg
Stanley #78 style....bolt is longer, about all..
IMG_1738 (640x480).jpg
There are three spurs for my Stanley #45, sitting in their "holder" a series of holes for the bolts to sit in.
IMG_1746 (640x480).jpg
Stanley #39-3/8".....it has two spurs, as it is a dado plane.
IMG_1747 (640x480).jpg
Need to use a "batten" across the board, to guide it. Iron sits at a skew.
Nope, SW era, 1920s....
Whatever....
IMG_1760 (640x480).jpg
Roxton Pond, Que. Canada
IMG_1761 (640x480).jpg
Rotated up, and out of the way.
The nickers in question are roughly 1/2" wide, spear-point blades. Spurs are, well...spurs. In my opinion, the best design is the round cutter like on the Tite-Mark marking gauge. They take and keep an edge well and honing is easy...you just put them face down on your media using your finger and give them a few swipes. When used as nickers they usually have a small flat on the edge so you can rotate them out of use. I have a LN plane that has that arrangement.