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Thread: Veritas combination plane is here

  1. #61
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    FWIW, Stanley's recommended skate configurations for various complex profiles with the #55 are shown on p. 16-17 here. The Roman Ogee is fig. 64 and the Grecian Ogee is fig. 68.

    In all figures the main skate (the one with the blade clamp and adjustment) is on the left, the adjustable-depth skate is on the right, and the auxiliary skate (if present) is in the middle.
    Thanks. I have a 55 that came with a set of cutters. It will get cleaned up and re-homed. This will come in handy for this and give me some ideas for the using the more complex cutters on this plane.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noah Magnuson View Post
    Thanks. I have a 55 that came with a set of cutters. It will get cleaned up and re-homed. This will come in handy for this and give me some ideas for the using the more complex cutters on this plane.
    Hopefully those cutters are in good shape - Mine came with factory grinds on most of the complex ones, and even so it was a lot of work to prepare them all. Flattening the backs immediately behind the edges would have been a never-ending chore without a platter grinder (Veritas Mk II in my case) and diamond discs.

    I'm planning to get the Veritas as you already have, for use with simpler profiles. I bought the 55 both for the irons and for use with complex profiles.

    My take so far is that while unquestionably very complex the 55 isn't as difficult as its reputation, and the extra support from the adjustable-height skate and the auxiliary are worth the hassle. There are some gotchas to be aware of, for example the fact that the fence-tightening mechanism tends to skew the fence if you aren't careful, because the fence lock screws on the front and back shafts tend to bias the fence in opposite directions when tightened. The fence also needs to be parallel to the cutter edge, but in mine the main fence wouldn't quite rotate to vertical, so I planed the rosewood a bit where it meets the fence casting's vertical stop surface so that it could rotate further.

    All in all I think that it's worth having a simpler combo like the Veritas or 45 for cases where you don't need all of the adjustability.

  3. #63
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    All in all I think that it's worth having a simpler combo like the Veritas or 45 for cases where you don't need all of the adjustability.
    And maybe a smaller plane like the Veritas small plow or a #50 or similar for the simple stuff.

    I have a 55 that came with a set of cutters. It will get cleaned up and re-homed.
    Here is a good article on that:

    https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/0...plane-cutters/

    One of my threads also covers a bit about sharpening molding plane blades:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hab-Enthusiast

    Making one's old molding can be quite a rewarding experience.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    And maybe a smaller plane like the Veritas small plow or a #50 or similar for the simple stuff.
    I already have the small plow. I think that the Combo still makes a lot of sense in between that and the #55 though. While it can be adapted to larger irons with a (short) add-on skate, IMO the small plow works best as, well, a small plow.

  5. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    I already have the small plow. I think that the Combo still makes a lot of sense in between that and the #55 though. While it can be adapted to larger irons with a (short) add-on skate, IMO the small plow works best as, well, a small plow.
    I have the small plow and plan on continuing to use it for what it is (very) good at. However, bigger/wider dado, reeding, beeding, is for the large plow, and honestly in spite of the fact that it can do it, I would tend to use moulding planes for any repeatable moulding. It is well worth having dedicated moulders.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noah Magnuson View Post
    I have the small plow and plan on continuing to use it for what it is (very) good at. However, bigger/wider dado, reeding, beeding, is for the large plow, and honestly in spite of the fact that it can do it, I would tend to use moulding planes for any repeatable moulding. It is well worth having dedicated moulders.
    Yeah, I'm coming to learn that there's a lot to be said for a proper mouth and a sprung fence.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    Yeah, I'm coming to learn that there's a lot to be said for...a sprung fence.
    Elaborate, please?

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    Elaborate, please?
    Patrick will have to speak for himself, for me it means having a molding plane with a fence as part of the sole and having a sole matching the blade. It can do a better job than a plane like the Stanley #55. The advantage of the combination plane is it can so the work of a shelf or two full of dedicated molding planes.

    A wooden sole also helps to register on the work as the cut is being made.

    A sprung fence may be in reference to the spring line or strike line on some molding planes that cut their shape at an angle other than 90º from the work's edge.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    Elaborate, please?
    A sprung molding plane is one that cuts at an angle such that the fence isn't all the way parallel to the plane's tall axis. This means that applying force straight down on the plane both drives the edge into the work and holds the fence against the work. See this for example (pix and second to last para).

    One of the things you have to be careful about with combo planes like the 45/55/etc is to use your second hand to keep the fence registered to the work. A sprung plane somewhat mitigates that concern, because the very act of pushing the plane also provides force to register the fence.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-02-2017 at 10:37 PM.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    A sprung fence may be in reference to the spring line or strike line on some molding planes that cut their shape at an angle other than 90º from the work's edge.

    jtk
    Yes, exactly (but more precisely worded than my post - thanks!)

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    Yes, exactly (but more precisely worded than my post - thanks!)
    Your welcome, the more ways something can be explained, the more likely readers will be able to glean information from these threads.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  12. #72
    Just a heads up to those that have this plane to watch out for the spur adjustment screws (the ones that push the blades out horizontally) falling out. I was planing away when I noticed one sitting on the bench and then noticed the other one was gone. I got lucky and found it in the pile of shavings on the floor but others may not be so lucky... I think I will keep them in the box unless I need them.

  13. #73
    I've lost one of my spur adjustment screws already, and speaking of spurs....these are pretty soft. Some pine I was dadoing bent the tips over.
    Last edited by Mike Brady; 09-05-2017 at 2:42 PM.

  14. #74
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    Really.......I might have a spare spur from my #45 you could borrow...might even have a spare bolt.... haven't found a need to sharpen mine..yet. Even after Maple....

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brady View Post
    I've lost one of my spur adjustment screws already, and speaking of spurs....these are pretty soft. Some pine I was dadoing bent the tips over.
    Spurs are typically about Rc50, or roughly the same hardness as a quality scraper or sawplate. One thing to keep in mind is that they should only protrude a hair more the plane iron itself. Going deeper than that adds no benefit (the purpose of the nicker is to prevent tearing at the edge of the cut, so it need only extend as deep as the cut), but is a sure way to wear them out or deform them.

    I've had good luck fabricating nickers from blue-hard 1095 sheet stock of appropriate thickness (0.05" for Stanley 55, IDK about others), which is about the right hardness and can be filed to shape. The only hard part is the beveled slot, which requires some patience and skill with needle files. In my experience the trick is to cut out a strip of the right width but at least 1/2" longer than you need, and use that extra length to hold it in a vise while you file out the slot. You can then cut to length and file the tips.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-05-2017 at 4:30 PM.

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