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Thread: Question - How would you do this?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Somewhere in the Land of Lincoln
    Posts
    2,563
    I agree with Martin's idea. Make it two piece and glue together. Then you have more and easier options. I am guessing that the seam would never show from the front and be very inconspicuous on the back.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    84
    Thanks for all of the suggestions. I think I'm going to try the ball mill. Going to Harbor Freight this morning, I'll see if they have them.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,644
    Lester, make sure the piece is clamped down to the table. Don't plunge the ball mill down too fast, use a steady feed.
    Let us know how it works.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Putney, Vermont
    Posts
    1,044
    I would tilt the table on a drill press to 45* and use a bottom cutting endmill the radius of the cutout and lower the endmill with the quill of the drill press to cut out the shape. Set a quill stop so you don't run into the groove if you can.

  5. #35

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,775
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    Keith, where's the fun in that!?
    I'm being to practical I guess

    Putting the button on the top has another benefit, the charging port is on the end where the button is, just in case you wanted to charge the iPad when its on the stand.

  7. #37
    In thinking about it, I would use a plunge router for this if repeatable results are what you're after. Hot glue an appropriately angled "fence" to the aft side of the router baseplate to create the angle/tilt you need. Cut this fence at your table saw from some scrap. Maybe a locating stop at the fore side would be good also since you have many to do. Experiment with the depth of cut to get the recess you want such that cutting the groove subsequently will erase the part of the bore you don't want. I would try a 3/4" round nose bit because I happen to have one, and at the right depth it should give you a scallop as opposed to a straight hole, resembling what you did by hand. Once you have this set up, you can blow through your blanks in short order. Secure the blank to the bench in any number of ways. I'd use a combination square or a scrap spacer to set the left/right position in under 2 seconds. Maybe a bit of sandpaper under the angled fence to resist movement.

    I don't like cutting/re-gluing because it takes time and clamps x30. I'd say once you have the set-up I'm describing, you should be able to do them all in about 15 minutes and they'll be identical.

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