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Thread: How to refinish my front door?

  1. #16
    I, too, am about to refinish my front door. Thanks for all the good ideas. I wish I saw them earlier. I got al little sidetracked and tacking a slightly different tack. When I went to the chandlers to buy Epifanes they told me about Pettit's SeaGold. It is a new water based matte marine varnish with UV inhibitors. You can apply three or four coats in a day. I was hooked and bought some. Has anyone used this? I was told to use a water based exterior stain and the only one I could find was General Finishes Water Based Exterior 450 which also has UV inhibitors. Has anyone used this? Does this combination make sense?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Exeter, CA
    Posts
    691
    IMG_2145.jpgOk, progress! Have stripped door with Kleen Strip, sanded down and feathered what is left, razor bladed off layers till my fingers hurt and sanded some more. Did some minor fill to dings and mocked up where the molding will go with blue painters tape. Bought and miter cut molding today, will install tomorrow with small finish nailer and glue. Then fill miter cracks with caulk, prime, sand and reprime and paint. whew....

  3. #18
    You are going to be happy! Some of those mouldings are backed out some, (hollowed to make sure edges sit against surface of door with no open spots). If what you bought does not have that ,I would alter it.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Exeter, CA
    Posts
    691
    Interesting, never thought of that. Think what I bought is just flat on the back. Just bought what looked right at Lowes. if any voids along sides, will fill with small amount of caulk rubbed into crack. Live and learn..... Thanks. Randy

  5. #20
    I'm sure that will be fine. Since more wood is removed ,during manufacture ,from the face than the back ,it can roll up a bit. I would apply the glue toward the edges, not the middle.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Exeter, CA
    Posts
    691
    Ok, finally got it striped, trimmed, caulked, primed and new hdwe installed. One eyelid was all swollen during the stripping and sanding and the OD said it was an allergic reaction to either the stripper or sanding dust. My guess is the sanding dust. Anyway, we have a painter coming to do living room and front door shortly, will be a burgundy color to pick up the used brick color. I have quit painting at my age, my least favorite thing to do.... Thanks for all the inputs. Randy
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    That is already an amazing change for the better, Randall. I think it's going to look gorgeous when it's all done in its final color. Definitely worth all the hard work.

    John

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5,582
    Your door looks great! Nice work.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    North Virginia
    Posts
    341
    I would agree with the suggestions to strip it back to bare wood. I would highly recommend using a base coat or two of Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) - I use Smith brand, but there are many others. Then top the CPES with a good quallity spar varnish. This will completely seal the wood and give it UV protection - which is what causes the most degradation over time. I like the Total Boat spar varnishes, but just be sure they have UV protectants.

    TedP

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Exeter, CA
    Posts
    691
    Just saw that I never did put up a pic of the finished door. Here it is. As we had a pro painter redoing the living room, had him do the front door also. Interesting that he mixed some caulk in with the paint to fill some of the wood grain and ended up spraying on two coats. Looks great up close and personal! Thanks for all the tips all!! Randy
    IMG_2325.jpg
    IMG_2323.jpg

  11. #26
    Thanks for showing us the finished project and glad you like it. Or as the pillow guy says: "I KNEW YOU WOULD!!"

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