Best Remote Control Start for a 2 HP DC

[lee cox]

I am building my DC system with a 2 HP Baldor motor which pulls 11 to 12 amps 240 volts. I need a remote control start on my DC as it is outside my shop in a shed sharing the same wall.
The units I have found is the iVAC Pro Switch 240 volt and the Lone Ranger 240 volt unit. Which one has the better soft start for a 2 HP Baldor motor? I was leaning toward the iVAC unit because in the future if I want to expand there are more features you can buy from iVAC. But I really want the best performing unit.

[Jim Becker]

There have been a number of threads on this subject. IMHO, the "best" solution utilizes a contactor (a relay type device) to switch the power to the DC on and off via a lower voltage control circuit. The latter can be 120v AC or something in the 12-24v DC neighborhood...it's up to the contactor you choose. You can use a centrally located switch in the wall like I do or set things up with a wireless remote system. The key here is that you are not switching the DC's 240v load directly. That's the job of the contactor which you trigger with the switch type of your choice.

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

Jim, that is what I did only using a cheap wireless controller for the trigger for the large contactor.

[lee cox]

I thought the iVAC Pro Switch has a soft start feature like a contactor start.

My Unisaw has a 24 volt soft start contactor start.

PS
It looks like you need to buy an iVAC contactor to work along with the iVAC Pro Switch. There naming convention is very hard to understand.

[lee cox]

Has anybody used a iVAC contactor? I tried the search but could not find a thread.

If I only use a iVAC Pro Switch without a contactor what is going to happen long term?

I am not good enough to spin my own contactor setup. I can probably wire a iVAC contactor but I don't have the electronics back ground to invent one.

[Jim Becker]

Mine is a "plain old contactor" from a local electrical supply house and they are simple to wire up. I bought a small disconnect box and gutted it to provide an enclosure for the contactor and mounted it on the wall near the cyclone in the DC/Compressor closet.

[John K Jordan]

Has anybody used a iVAC contactor? I tried the search but could not find a thread.
If I only use a iVAC Pro Switch without a contactor what is going to happen long term?
I am not good enough to spin my own contactor setup. I can probably wire a iVAC contactor but I don't have the electronics back ground to invent one.

Lee, it is actually pretty simple to wire up a contactor (a fancy name for a relay). Wiring in a contactor will give you a bullet-proof installation which is flexible, can be controlled by a light switch or a wireless remote control. I use one to turn my ClearVue 5hp cyclone on and off with a wireless remote.

If you can wire up a light switch or a receptacle it won't be a problem (otherwise, an electrician could do it very quickly). There is a diagram in the ClearVue cyclone assembly manual: http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/asse...emblySheet.pdf ClearVue also sells a suitable contactor. In fact, they sell a pre-wired electrical box that includes all the hardware plus the wireless remote, but it is kind of klutzy. It might be cheaper to make one from parts you can get at Home Depot. I bought their box but took it apart and just used the components to build it the way I wanted it.

The contactor has two 220v input terminals for the two wires from the circuit breaker. It has two 220v output terminals for the two wires that go to the dust collector. The contactor also has two 110v terminals for the two wires that come from the switch or remote. (Note that contactors are also available to control with other voltages but the 110v is probably the simplest)

Basically, all you do is run a 220v line to a box with the contactor. Run a cable from the box to the DC motor.
Then run a cable for control (14 ga romex) to the box from where you want the remote switch or wireless remote receiver.

Connect the 220v lines to the two input terminals of the contactor.
Connect the 220v dust collector motor lines to the two output terminals of the contactor.
Connect the 110v control cable to the two control terminals of the contactor.
(Connect all the ground wires together)

You can use a normal 110v light switch on a 15a lighting circuit to power the control line. You can pretend the contactor is a light fixture and wire it exactly the same way. Or you connect the control line to an inexpensive wireless remote receiver which is triggered by a key-fob transmitter. Either way, when 110v is sent down the control cable the contactor (relay) closes and turns on the DC.

I used a wireless remote similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQRHMM (Amazon no longer carries the model I have. I think ACE hardware also carries these) I bought four just to get extra key-fob transmitters to hang by various shop tools.

JKJ

[Bruce Wrenn]

Being Christmas time, remotes are a "dime a dozen." Use remote to control contactor. To avoid having to add low voltage transformer, buy contactor with 110 volt coil. I like having sensor and contactor in power panel, along with a "delay on break timer." When it senses current going to machine, DC cuts on, and stops ten seconds after machine shuts down. Mine is based on plans in Aug 2000 FWW.

[John K Jordan]

Being Christmas time, remotes are a "dime a dozen." Use remote to control contactor. To avoid having to add low voltage transformer, buy contactor with 110 volt coil. I like having sensor and contactor in power panel, along with a "delay on break timer." When it senses current going to machine, DC cuts on, and stops ten seconds after machine shuts down. Mine is based on plans in Aug 2000 FWW.

Bruce,

I'm trying to get a clear idea of what you are suggesting.
I don't have the Aug 2000 FWW magazine.
I'm assuming you have a typical stationary central dust collector with drops to multiple machines.

Can what you are suggesting sense machines on different circuits, some 110v and some 220v?
You said "Use remote to control contactor" then, "I like having the sensor and contactor in the power panel"
do you mean a wireless remote?
how is a wireless remote used along with this sensor in the power panel?
When you say you like to have the "sensor and contactor in power panel",
what power panel, the breaker box? a custom control panel? something else?
what type of sensor?
one sensor per machine?
Is this "delay on break timer" a separate device per machine?

Sorry for all the questions!

JKJ

[lee cox]

So Jim what I am figuring with your pictures, I am thinking you are using 110v to control 220v on the contactor but I am confused by your wire colors. On white wires I usually use red tape to let you know it is power wire not a neutral. Do I have it figured right? This brings up another question. If I have a iVAC Pro switch 240v will it work for remote control or do I need a 110v version for remote?

John I think what you are saying is what Jim is showing. Instead of a light switch I would want to use a remote box switch.

[lee cox]

I spoke with iVAC tech support and the iVAC Pro Switch 240v will not work with my Baldor motor. The unit is not rated high enough and will burn out. As the Baldor motor pulls quit a lot of amps on start up. He says my only solution is to use a contactor. He recommends a iVAC Pro Switch 115v and the iVAC contactor which is a $136 dollar option. I don't really want to spend that much so maybe I am going to have to do what Jim and John are talking about. I need to price their solutions and just buy a remote.

[Jim Becker]

So Jim what I am figuring with your pictures, I am thinking you are using 110v to control 220v on the contactor but I am confused by your wire colors. On white wires I usually use red tape to let you know it is power wire not a neutral. Do I have it figured right? This brings up another question. If I have a iVAC Pro switch 240v will it work for remote control or do I need a 110v version for remote?

John I think what you are saying is what Jim is showing. Instead of a light switch I would want to use a remote box switch.

Convention for 240v circuits is to mark the typically white wire to indicate it's "also hot"...I use black tape for that usually, but perhaps when I installed this contactor many years ago, I didn't make that step. And yes, on the control side of the contactor I bought, it's 120v. What you can't see exactly in the photos is that I have a split outlet. Here is how things are wired up more or less...note I do not show grounds on this diagram.

[David M Peters]

Lee, I'm using Grizzly's 240V remote on their 548ZP whose 2HP motor draws 9A @ full load. I'm not sure how that compares to you Baldor motor but this setup has worked fine for me for the past 18 months.

[lee cox]

Yes the iVAC switch was rated up to 9A but my older Blador 2 HP motor draws 12A. The iVAC guy told me their remote switch would burn out using my Blador motor.

[Sam Layton]

I agree on the contactor. I have used the contactor plus Radio Shack 110 remote control to power my 3 hp Baldor motor for years. I just recently changed the remote control, just plug and play. This is how I wired mine.

I do not like my remote to be active all the time. I don't want a stray signal to turn on the dust collector when I am not in the shop. I added a switch and night light. The switch gives the remote power, and turns on the night light. When I finish for the day, the night light reminds me to turn off the power to the remote control.

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