Oklahoma Homestead 40x80x12

[Tom M King]

"Smart Side" sounds familiar. Whatever the thickness, it's stiffer than 3/8's plywood, or 1/2" sheetrock. I put it on 16" centers.

I looked for the smooth, v-joint panels online, and couldn't find it. If anyone needs to know, I still have a few sheets up in the loft of the barn, so I can look at a sticker on the back of one.

[Jim Becker]

I actually used the thinner T1-11 in the half of the shop that sports it (because of attractive cost) and honestly, if I were doing it again, I would have gone with thicker material. Since it's a concrete block structure, I only have "half-stud" firing for walls behind it (insulated) and it's been a little "wavy" over time in some places because it's so flexible.

Tom, you're correct that it's called LP SmartSide. It's .31" thick, according to Home Depot's web site and sells for $32 a sheet. They have primed T1-11 in half-inch for $39.

[Jefferey Scott]

I wouldn't mind the Smartside or similar material. The main reason I thought T1-11, is that there is a building supply in town that sells it for $20.99 a sheet for 5/8". That's considerably lower than the big box stores. With 84 sheets to buy, I've got to make the money stretch as far as I can. My original choice long ago was OSB. Nothing wrong with that, but I wanted to upgrade the look a bit, as aesthetics are important to me to a point. Sort of a balancing act between price and looks. I do need to go look at this supply house's material to make sure it isn't junk.

Thanks for all the ideas Tom, Mel, and Jim.


On another subject, I'm ready to rock! 26 sheets of 12 ft and 18 sheets of 8 ft put a bit of a strain on the Tahoe but we made it

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[Jim Becker]

That's a REALLY good price for that T1-11. No brainer, IMHO.

[Jefferey Scott]

That's a REALLY good price for that T1-11. No brainer, IMHO.

That was my thinking too. And I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the 8 ft high french cleat on the walls to hide the horizontal seam. That just makes more and more sense now.

Y'all have some awesome ideas!

[James Biddle]

That was my thinking too. And I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the 8 ft high french cleat on the walls to hide the horizontal seam. That just makes more and more sense now.

Y'all have some awesome ideas!

It was easier to use regular plywood between the I-beams (make a template and jigsaw out each side) since we painted the beams and ceiling white anyway. The French cleat is 8’ up. We used a 1x at the beneath the full sheet to handle the transition to concrete and to provide a nice level ledge for the T-1-11 to rest on for install. We used a wire mold around the outside to make it easy to reconfigure and mounted it above four feet from the floor as to not interfere with leaning plywood. I’ll add a pic later.

[James Biddle]

Here's the pic...
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It was easier to use regular plywood between the I-beams (make a template and jigsaw out each side) since we painted the beams and ceiling white anyway. The French cleat is 8’ up. We used a 1x at the beneath the full sheet to handle the transition to concrete and to provide a nice level ledge for the T-1-11 to rest on for install. We used a wire mold around the outside to make it easy to reconfigure and mounted it above four feet from the floor as to not interfere with leaning plywood. I’ll add a pic later.

[Charles Bechle]

There's a great forum called Garage Journal with good advice from knowledgeable people. Check out the section devoted entirely to lighting and electrical. There's a lady in Texas named April Wilkerson (who is by the way, very easy on the eyes) who has a YouTube channel devoted to woodworking. She's building herself a shop now very similar to yours - 1/2 woodworking - 1/2 metal fab. Here's a link to her shop build videos: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...son+shop+build. Good luck with your build!

[Jefferey Scott]

44 sheets of drywall picked up, loaded and unloaded in the barn, we were ready to start sheet rocking. Even the “lightweight” stuff seems heavy. Most of it is 12′ long sheets to minimize joints, 8 ft for the utility room and some 8 ft moisture control blueboard for the bathroom. Since we aren’t going to put drywall on the ceiling, opting for galvanized metal panels instead, I hesitated getting a drywall lift. But I surely am happy I did. Renting a lift for two weeks was $140. I found one on Amazon for $139 that got decent reviews so we now own a lift.
It’s helpful with the upper sheets of drywall, hoisting them up to the 10 ft level and holding them while we screwed them in. I even drywalled solo and thanks to the lift was able to manage pretty easily. This past weekend we got 22 sheets up, about halfway done. We will finish hanging the rock next weekend and then subsequent weekends will be spent mudding, taping, sanding, and repeat. Then I’ll spray a knock down mud texture on the walls and they will be ready for paint. After that, we will install the galvanized low rib panels on the ceiling and I’m sure use the lift for that too.

I need all the help I can get, so I used my trusty B&D Crossfire laser to locate studs.

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And here’s the $139 wonder

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[Jefferey Scott]

It was easier to use regular plywood between the I-beams (make a template and jigsaw out each side) since we painted the beams and ceiling white anyway. The French cleat is 8’ up. We used a 1x at the beneath the full sheet to handle the transition to concrete and to provide a nice level ledge for the T-1-11 to rest on for install. We used a wire mold around the outside to make it easy to reconfigure and mounted it above four feet from the floor as to not interfere with leaning plywood. I’ll add a pic later.

James, thanks for the picture, your shop looks good. That's the look I'm going for.

There's a great forum called Garage Journal with good advice from knowledgeable people. Check out the section devoted entirely to lighting and electrical. There's a lady in Texas named April Wilkerson (who is by the way, very easy on the eyes) who has a YouTube channel devoted to woodworking. She's building herself a shop now very similar to yours - 1/2 woodworking - 1/2 metal fab. Here's a link to her shop build videos: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...son+shop+build. Good luck with your build!

Charles, I also post on Garage Journal and get some good advice there too. As far as April Wilkerson, I follow her on Instagram. She's an awesome lady with some great skills. Her new shop looks to be a really nice big space.

Thanks for checking in guys !

[Jim Becker]

April Wilkerson just posted the wall and ceiling video for her new shop project on YouTube...you might be interested in the ceiling part because she used a corrugated material for that and seeing how they put it up could be helpful to you, although her ceiling is a bit higher than yours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmmfUf_zKCA

[Scott Buehler]

I just purchased a dry wall lift from ebay also for125.00. I figure I'll turn around and sell it for a bit less when I'm done your shop is looking great!

[Jefferey Scott]

April Wilkerson just posted the wall and ceiling video for her new shop project on YouTube...you might be interested in the ceiling part because she used a corrugated material for that and seeing how they put it up could be helpful to you, although her ceiling is a bit higher than yours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmmfUf_zKCA

Interesting material and she put it up pretty quick. I'm going to have the metal supplier cut our corrugated metal to size for each room to minimize any cutting on my part. April's shop is awesome. I'm thinking about walling off the metal shop with higher walls now to contain the mess that metal produces. I like her design between the two shops. Not sure what size building it is, but it's big.

I just purchased a dry wall lift from ebay also for125.00. I figure I'll turn around and sell it for a bit less when I'm done your shop is looking great!

Thanks for checking in Scott! I may sell mine too when all is said and done. It's nice to be able to do so. I also bought a drywall screw gun, which sped up the process a bit more. I may hold on to that.

[Jim Becker]

I think she mentions the size in the early build videos, but yes, it's a large "dream shop". We should all be so lucky! She's done well by herself with her videos and sponsorships and is enjoyable to watch. She's also not afraid to dive in to really hard work, including unfamiliar things, which is something we should all try to emulate within our individual capabilities.

I think that your inclination to sub-divide for the metal work is very worthy, both for mess control and honestly, safety relative to fire hazards, etc.

[Jefferey Scott]

I think she mentions the size in the early build videos, but yes, it's a large "dream shop". We should all be so lucky! She's done well by herself with her videos and sponsorships and is enjoyable to watch. She's also not afraid to dive in to really hard work, including unfamiliar things, which is something we should all try to emulate within our individual capabilities.

I think that your inclination to sub-divide for the metal work is very worthy, both for mess control and honestly, safety relative to fire hazards, etc.

You got me thinking on the metal shop Jim. Maybe it would be better to sheath the walls with metal liner panel down that end of the shop. Lots of sparks from grinding and welding happening there. I know the movable walls that I had planned to build to section off that area are to be covered in 29 gauge metal panels. I need to think this one over some more. I can see safety benefits in doing it this way.

Thanks for your input.