Oklahoma Homestead 40x80x12

[Jefferey Scott]

Here's another grid design for the lights. This plan would place 1 fixture every 100 sq feet. With this density I would put each row on its own circuit or if I got dual ballast fixtures, half of each row on a circuit. I'll have a large main panel with 200 amps, so no worries on the number of circuits in the box.

shop w lights 2.jpg

[Jim Andrew]

Wondering what is the purpose of building with 16' sidewalls? Do you plan to build a 2 story house in one end? I have a neighbor who did that, about half the shed is house and the other half is a huge high ceiling garage.
I have a 16' sidewall building, but built it so a combine would fit under the door. Adjusting the doors is a pain, huge high ceiling. Need a long ladder to do anything in there.

[Steve Peterson]

I would want lots of light switches. No sense in lighting the entire building if you are only working in one zone.

Steve

[Greg R Bradley]

FYI, assuming full reflector High Bay Lighting and good bulbs, measured at 30" bench height and 14' fixture height:

Your first plan of 3 rows of 7 4xT8 is 73fc

My initial suggestion of 6xT8 with double ballast and 3 rows of 6 is 88fc

Change that to 4xT5HO is 85fc

Change that to $199 HD LED High bay is 67fc

If you change to 4 rows of 5 then the 6xT8 gets you 92fc, 4 rows of 6 gets you 110fc, your last design of 4 rows of 7 is 120fc

[Jefferey Scott]

Wondering what is the purpose of building with 16' sidewalls? Do you plan to build a 2 story house in one end? I have a neighbor who did that, about half the shed is house and the other half is a huge high ceiling garage.
I have a 16' sidewall building, but built it so a combine would fit under the door. Adjusting the doors is a pain, huge high ceiling. Need a long ladder to do anything in there.

I do plan on a 2nd floor above the office/bathroom area and would like the ability to duplicate that arrangement anywhere in the building as needs change. It's just a way to get more floorspace as needed. Also, I had planned on buying some rolling scaffolding for the interior build out, so I should have it handy to change light bulbs.

I would want lots of light switches. No sense in lighting the entire building if you are only working in one zone.

Steve

Absolutely! I want to only turn on what I need depending on which area of the building I'm working in. I'll be buying romex in the big rolls

FYI, assuming full reflector High Bay Lighting and good bulbs, measured at 30" bench height and 14' fixture height:

Your first plan of 3 rows of 7 4xT8 is 73fc

My initial suggestion of 6xT8 with double ballast and 3 rows of 6 is 88fc

Change that to 4xT5HO is 85fc

Change that to $199 HD LED High bay is 67fc

If you change to 4 rows of 5 then the 6xT8 gets you 92fc, 4 rows of 6 gets you 110fc, your last design of 4 rows of 7 is 120fc

Prepare for the Sunburn!!

You are a lighting guru, Sir.

[Thomas Canfield]

In addition to lots of light switches, I recommend using multiple breakers and also have an emergency exit light(s) for power outage. I got caught in shop early one morning when there was a power outage and had to feel my way across shop to flashlight.

[Jefferey Scott]

In addition to lots of light switches, I recommend using multiple breakers and also have an emergency exit light(s) for power outage. I got caught in shop early one morning when there was a power outage and had to feel my way across shop to flashlight.

Amen on the multiple breakers, I'll have plenty to use. And I hadn't thought of the emergency exit light. I know exactly what you're talking about and that's an excellent suggestion. Thanks Thomas.

[Jefferey Scott]

I wish I had some construction pictures for everyone, that will happen in June/July. For now, I can show you where the shop will sit...

IMG_2824m.jpg

[Ted Calver]

A bit off topic, but have you considered adding a storm shelter? It might be easier now than later. You won't regret having one when that big twister heads your way.

[Jefferey Scott]

A bit off topic, but have you considered adding a storm shelter? It might be easier now than later. You won't regret having one when that big twister heads your way.

Storm shelter? Absolutely!

[Jefferey Scott]

Hi Guys,

It's been over a year now and has taken me that long to get things in order. I just signed a contract for my 40x80x12 Shop with a local pole barn builder. I reduced the height of the building from 16 to 12 in order to keep within my budget which is pretty strict. It also allowed me some funds to start finishing out the inside. So to recap this is going to be a metal fab and woodworking shop. The two will be at opposite ends of the building to reduce the chance that metal grit and grime will stay out of the woodworking area. I've got some pictures of the land where the building will go and renditions of what the building should look like below.

Wide shot of our 10 acres from the back fenceline

Back of Property.jpg

Shot of where the shop will sit. Four t posts mark the corners

IMG_0731.jpg

Shot of grade slope. Its slopes from front to back 18". House in the shot is the neighbors.
IMG_0734.jpg

Front of Shop
IMG_0782.jpg
Back of Shop
Back.jpg
Floorplan including living quarters at the west end.
FloorPlan.jpg

So the builder has me about 8 weeks out on their schedule. They might bump me up if an opening comes available. The plan calls for a dirt building pad to be constructed and then built on. They will pour a 4" slab with monolithic stem walls around the perimeter. I'm going to contract the dirt work. I calculate I'll need 10 loads of loam to do it. Haven't got a quote yet, I'm getting recommendations from the builder on dirt guys in the area. This building will be our primary residence for a while. Can't wait to get all my machines and tools moved in. This is something I've dreamed of for decades, but waited almost too late to accomplish (I'm 54).

Thanks for looking.

Jeff

[mike wacker]

Greg,

Great post with the numbers. My 58 year old eyes are fine with 73 foot candles for sure. One point that I didn't notice mentioned in this thread is that not only are high quality lamps important, the output of the ballasts is key. Most HIF (High Intensity Fluorescent) high bay fixtures come with High lumen output ballasts but not all. T8 Ballasts typically come in low, normal and high output versions. They all produce about the same lumens per watt (roughly), the higher the output the higher the energy consumption (sp). Something about physics there. Sorry, I digressed. Make sure you get the high output ballasts in your high bay fixtures.

Also, I strongly agree with the recomendation that you switch the devil out of that lighting layout. Stating the obvious perhaps, you can put multiple switchs on a circuit as long as you don't exceed the wiring/breaker limitations. The 21 fixtures you discribed will draw a little over an amp apiece. Once I do the math thats 2.4ish kW. If you are paying 10 cents a kWh for electricity, thats 24 cents an hour if they are all on. Your Mileage WILL Vary.

Paint everything (ceiling/walls/floor) as light a color as you can stand. I recommend white for ceiling and walls, light gray/tan for the floor. The reflectance can add 10% plus to your over all light levels, especially near the edges.

Cuse my spelling, I do Math and lighting lol. Lastly, I think you'll be very happy with your original 3x7 layout.

[Jim Andrew]

You might look at putting your storm shelter inside the building. We went through a tornado in 1980, had to go outside to get into the cellar, so we just sat in the house, and the tornado went around us. It took the barn across the road, and spread debris all directions around our old house.

[Jefferey Scott]

Greg,

Great post with the numbers. My 58 year old eyes are fine with 73 foot candles for sure. One point that I didn't notice mentioned in this thread is that not only are high quality lamps important, the output of the ballasts is key. Most HIF (High Intensity Fluorescent) high bay fixtures come with High lumen output ballasts but not all. T8 Ballasts typically come in low, normal and high output versions. They all produce about the same lumens per watt (roughly), the higher the output the higher the energy consumption (sp). Something about physics there. Sorry, I digressed. Make sure you get the high output ballasts in your high bay fixtures.

Also, I strongly agree with the recomendation that you switch the devil out of that lighting layout. Stating the obvious perhaps, you can put multiple switchs on a circuit as long as you don't exceed the wiring/breaker limitations. The 21 fixtures you discribed will draw a little over an amp apiece. Once I do the math thats 2.4ish kW. If you are paying 10 cents a kWh for electricity, thats 24 cents an hour if they are all on. Your Mileage WILL Vary.

Paint everything (ceiling/walls/floor) as light a color as you can stand. I recommend white for ceiling and walls, light gray/tan for the floor. The reflectance can add 10% plus to your over all light levels, especially near the edges.

Cuse my spelling, I do Math and lighting lol. Lastly, I think you'll be very happy with your original 3x7 layout.

Thanks for your thoughts Mike. I am definitely going to have multiple switches and lighting zones. Question, since my ceiling height is 12' now, do i still need High-Bay fixtures?

[Jefferey Scott]

You might look at putting your storm shelter inside the building. We went through a tornado in 1980, had to go outside to get into the cellar, so we just sat in the house, and the tornado went around us. It took the barn across the road, and spread debris all directions around our old house.

Jim, I'm thinking of building an above ground steel safe room in the house when constructed, or possibly one in the shop doubling as a gun safe. I've got a 8x4 gun safe room i built in my garage now.