Makita Track Saw Review

[Mark Blatter]

I had a job to get done, some commercial shelving, and decided it would go much faster with a track saw instead of trying to use the TS for cutting full sized melamine and slat wall sheets. I had already been looking at them so it didn't take long to verify I wanted to go with the Makita due to price and the reviews on it. Here are my thoughts after using it for a few days;

1. I like the fit and feel of the saw. Seem well designed and comfortable to use. The buttons for changing depth of cut, the scoring function, etc. were well placed.
2. I love that it is variable speed. I used it pretty much on the 2 setting so it ran slower (instructions said that the blade will last much longer if run at slow speed), but more importantly it cut just as good and was so much quieter than a standard skill saw.
3. The first time I used the plunge feature, I got a small amount of kickback, but it was my fault for not having it firmly held. It was the only time as I learned to respect it a bit more.
4. The cut on the under side, (melamine) was clean. The top side was pretty good, but not as clean, unless I used the scoring cut first. If I did, it was incredibly clean on both top and bottom.

Now the bad, what I don't like.

1. I am sure on wood sheet goods, the track will stay right in place, no problem. On melamine, it was alright, but not perfect. I had to be very careful not to bump or nudge the track at all. When cutting, I had to carefully push straight forward with no side pressure, or the track would move. I have ordered a couple of clamps to help with this in the future, and I realize that perhaps nothing is going to hold on melamine since it is so slick. It was better on slat wall.
2. I didn't realize, perhaps lack of attention on my part, that it does not come with a dust bag. Seems a no brainer that they should just include it. Oh well, a minor point.

One last note. I read where others use it on the floor, using a piece of dense foam for a cutting platform. I liked the idea so picked up a 2" sheet. I don't know how they do it on the floor, but it was beyond me. Trying to cut on my knees was never going to work. I pulled out a couple of cabinet saw horses, ones we used at the old shop, then put two 18" full length strips of 1" melamine on top of those to act as supports, and used the foam on top of them. That worked great. I also realized that it gave me a sacrificial platform for drilling. No need to worry about going through to something below. Made drilling some pilot holes, etc. much easier. It was a great way to work, yet another tip I picked up reading SMC.

[Al Bacon]

Mark

I use a couple of Dewalt track saw clamps with my Makita track. They work very well holding the track in place. You will find the track is more stable on wood by if the cut is to be perfect it is still better to clamp it.
Great saw though.

[Peter Quinn]

Glad you like yours. I'm happy with mine. On the kick back thing festool sells a limit stop that should fit the makita track, costs about $12, gives you a positive stop behind the track saw from which to start plunge cuts. there are start and stop indicators on the side of the saws housing so you can set the saw then precisely set the limit stop, you could set on at the stop end too for precision but I never got any kick back coming back out of a cut. You could make the same thing pretty easily with a knob an bolt.

On the dust bag thing.....not a bad idea for the occasional cut, the saw works great with a vacuum or dust extractor, not many skill saws do come with a dust bag. I don't think the festool saw comes with one though they now sell one for $55 that might fit the makita.

On the slipping thing...same experience here, on slick materials like prefinished ply and melamine, the clamps help a lot. Sometimes long miters on large sheets of plywood can make you exert more force than the anti slip pads can resist, the track clamps help there too, I wouldn't be without them.

[Mark Blatter]

Thanks for the suggestions Peter and Al. I realized that I would need a second set of track, and after it slipped once, I saw the need for the clamps. I was reading about them and saw that the Dewalt would fit the Makita and I liked the look of the Dewalt more, plus they were cheaper. I should have them tomorrow. I held off on the longer cuts until they get here.

[Allan Speers]

Glad you like yours. I'm happy with mine. On the kick back thing festool sells a limit stop that should fit the makita track, costs about $12, gives you a positive stop behind the track saw from which to start plunge cuts. there are start and stop indicators on the side of the saws housing so you can set the saw then precisely set the limit stop, you could set on at the stop end too for precision but I never got any kick back coming back out of a cut. You could make the same thing pretty easily with a knob an bolt. .

That's a great idea! I'm going to rig something up for my EZ system.

[Rick Potter]

Plus one on the vac system. My DeWalt actually clogs at just about 8' of melamine. With the vac attached, no problem. Freud sells a blade (at Rockler) that fits my DeWalt. Almost the same kerf, too, so the edge strip is not messed up. It is a few thousands larger than the standard blade.

[Peter Quinn]

That's a great idea! I'm going to rig something up for my EZ system.

I'd be curious to see how that goes. It was my understanding that plunge cuts were not the EZ smart systems strong suit, its probably the one area where the dedicated plunging track saw beats it. For me that means sink and utility cut outs. I've never had a "kick back" on a through cut with any track saw, the riving knife is pretty gimmicky IMO on these things, the makita doesn't have one and its of no concern to me. The track makes it go straight, which eliminates the binding that comes from heeling when not pushing a freehand skill saw dead straight, the riving knives do next to nothing. On the plunge cut however its not really a kick back, but the user can easily initiate a climb cut with considerable blade in play, and thats where things get weird. I've done sink cutouts two ways previously with a skill saw, one was to rock off the front edge of the plate while holding on for dear life and aligning the saw cut to a pencil mark as I'm plunging. This is no joy in 1 1/2" thick maple counters. The other is to line the plate up to a straight edge or use a track or guide, loosen the depth adjuster just enough to allow the saw to drop, then use the regular skill saw like a plunge saw, and when at full depth to reach over and snug the depth adjuster and advance the cut. Neither of these would meet anybody's definition of safe work methods, but with a plunge saw and a back stop its nearly childs play, results are very predictable and accurate (and quick). Sure there are a half dozen other ways to do sink cut outs and stopped plunge cuts, none quite as quick and accurate and with a vacuum as clean too. Routers, jig saws, these are messy tools.

Anyway, I'm curious to see how a back stop would be an asset on an ez smart system. Or do you use it with a plunging saw?

[Jim Dwight]

I use my DeWalt with a little Rigid shop vac (that has a aftermarket HEPA filter) and an Oneida dust deputy and a Bosch 5M hose. Works great. No bags and the filter never clogs. The whole setup is on a little cart based upon plans from Woodsmith. Vacuum and cyclone are hard connected with PVC piping. My point is just that you don't need a fancy vacuum. Being able to get most of the dust with a vacuum is one of the great things about a track saw.

It's a pain sometimes but the DeWalt has a device to keep it from going backward on the track to prevent kickbacks. I don't know if that is why but I've never gotten one.

[Phil Barrett]

I have the makita track saw and love it.

I use the DeWalt clamps all the time - wouldn't make a cut without them. They are quick clamp style so you can one hand them. Very fast to get the track locked in place. I know people don't bother with clamps but why take a chance.

As to a bag - I always use a vac/thein separator plus hepa filter on a cart. I have the iVac switch on it so the vac runs when I start the saw.

[Allan Speers]

Anyway, I'm curious to see how a back stop would be an asset on an ez smart system. Or do you use it with a plunging saw?

No plunge saw, but that would obviously be another good reason to try a stop. I plunge (very rarely) by using the bridge system on my EZ-One table.

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I disagree about the Festool's riving knife being a gimmick: Several times I have had the stock I was cutting with my EZ track / Hitli saw (no knife or splitter) close up on me, causing the saw to jerk rather violently. There is also the situation where you are cutting off an outside strip, esp with sheet goods, and neglected to get the entire "waste" section supported. In this case, the whole outside pice will angle down, closing the gap and binding on the blade dangerously.

EZ now sells a "fin" which is just a splitter, but it doesn't reach far enough to help when on the track. I guess it's just for freehand use. Odd. So I made my own splitter out of aluminum channel, deep enough to extend 1/2" into the stock. With both of the above scenarios, I no longer have any binding problems.

This is not the perfect solution, though, as the splitter has to be removed any time I make a beveled cut. I've been thinking about trying to attach a splitter to the saw's blade guard. This way, it would retract like a riving knife, and would also follow the angle of the blade thus allowing for safer bevel cuts.

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Taking things a step further, I'm also considering rigging my EZ One so that the entire track angles, instead of the saw. This would make it much easier to rig a splitter o knife, and it would also make it easier to create a dust-free environment.

- but I digress.