Clean Your Optics!

[Brian Leavitt]

My Unversals did not come with air assist. The Epilog has it, and it gets used regularly. I do believe there is a retrofit kit available for the X-series ULS machines, but it ain't cheap. For the time being, at least, I'll just continue my regular cleaning procedures (and trying real hard not to forget again) as they have worked well for many years. I do really like the air assist on the Epilog, though. Would like to add it to the ULS lasers some day.

[Dan Hintz]

This is what I get, and have always gotten, when doing glass. This is running at 80 power and 30 speed on 50 and 60 watt lasers. I know some people say you shouldn't even need to use air extraction when doing glass, but in my experience, this is not the case. This dust gets on the lenses, belts, I-beams, etc.

That's definitely a new one on me, Brian, and I've done a lot of glass in the years gone by. One side note... make sure you're optics are free of any oils, as those will trap contaminants like no tomorrow, and then it dominoes. I'm not really sure where you're getting such a fine powder from, but I do have my doubts it's from glass (possibly something on the glass that is off-gassing).

Also, those numbers are WAY high for glass. For my old 60W ULS, I was at 100S/60P for float glass. I don't know what speed the older X-6xx ran at, but if they were close to the 75ipm of today's ULSs, you may be creating more problems for yourself. Once the glass fractures, pouring more heat into it only causes problems.

[Bert Kemp]

I run air assist 99% of the time. The only time its off is if I have the air cone off for some reason OR I'm using powder coat as a fill. Air blows this stuff all over the place

My air assist is always on. The only thing that comes off is the nozzle and that's only for Cermark and synthetic wood engraving. My lens barely gets dirty. Those lens/mirror units here in New Zealand are about 1000 bucks so I am really trying to avoid buying another one.

[Hilton Lister]

I invariably get residue on my lens when engraving glass, but then I always use a detergent mix when doing it. I now rinse the lens in running water after I have finished, as I feel that the residue scatches if it
removed with alcohol and a cotton bud as is usually recommended. And yes, I do use air assist.

[Brian Leavitt]

That's definitely a new one on me, Brian, and I've done a lot of glass in the years gone by. One side note... make sure you're optics are free of any oils, as those will trap contaminants like no tomorrow, and then it dominoes. I'm not really sure where you're getting such a fine powder from, but I do have my doubts it's from glass (possibly something on the glass that is off-gassing).

Also, those numbers are WAY high for glass. For my old 60W ULS, I was at 100S/60P for float glass. I don't know what speed the older X-6xx ran at, but if they were close to the 75ipm of today's ULSs, you may be creating more problems for yourself. Once the glass fractures, pouring more heat into it only causes problems.

I do appreciate the input, Dan, but I must respectfully disagree on the power/speed settings. I have tried different settings in the past and if I try increasing the speed, or reducing the power, the quality of the etch degrades. These settings have always given me the best quality of engraving. Also, I'm running it at 300ppi as opposed to the 500ppi I use for most everything else. In fact, the ULS recommended settings are 100 power and 23 speed for the 50 watt machine on which I typically run glass. None of the settings I use for any of the materials I run were determined without much testing in the real world.

[Bill George]

I do appreciate the input, Dan, but I must respectfully disagree on the power/speed settings. I have tried different settings in the past and if I try increasing the speed, or reducing the power, the quality of the etch degrades. These settings have always given me the best quality of engraving. Also, I'm running it at 300ppi as opposed to the 500ppi I use for most everything else. In fact, the ULS recommended settings are 100 power and 23 speed for the 50 watt machine on which I typically run glass. None of the settings I use for any of the materials I run were determined without much testing in the real world.

RF tubes are spec'd to put out at least the rated output, many new and rebuilt ones exceed those ratings. As the tube ages and they all do at different rates, your settings will also need adjustment.

[Dan Hintz]

I do appreciate the input, Dan, but I must respectfully disagree on the power/speed settings. I have tried different settings in the past and if I try increasing the speed, or reducing the power, the quality of the etch degrades. These settings have always given me the best quality of engraving. Also, I'm running it at 300ppi as opposed to the 500ppi I use for most everything else. In fact, the ULS recommended settings are 100 power and 23 speed for the 50 watt machine on which I typically run glass. None of the settings I use for any of the materials I run were determined without much testing in the real world.

I typically run glass at 250-333dpi. I know what ULS recommends (100P and speed = wattage, so 50W = 50S) and I found it to be WAY too hot. If you're happy with what you have, that's all that matters, but I'd urge you to try again with a much lower power level and see if you can get it to work. If nothing else, it would speed up your work. Of course, my suggestion only rings true if your older systems are running at the now-standard 75(ish)ips. If your machine is slower, you could get away with even less power than I recommended earlier.

[Bill Cunningham]

I etch lots of glass, and I clean my lens about once a week, and have for the last 11 years. I also never use air assist with glsss. Still running the same lens I got with the machine. I don't think the Epilog open lens setup is as prone to collecting crud as some others.

[Chuck Stone]

I get that fine dust too when I engrave glass .. SOME glass. Not all.
But I always get it when I engrave Corian. TONS of it!
And even with the air assist, it somehow manages to get past the
cone and up into the lens area