Question About My Very First Attempt To Turn Something

[Dom Garafalo]

I finally have my new Jet 1221VS along with my slow speed grinder and Wolverine sharpening system set up. I'm now trying to get some hands on time.

For my first turning project I laminated 3 square pieces of construction grade 2" x 6" pine or spruce studs. Made it as round as possible on my bandsaw then mounted it to the 3" faceplate that came with my lathe.

Within about an hour I started to get some feel for how to sharpen my tools and how to shape the wood block, albeit a little bumpy especially at first.

What I found is that the wood shavings were small and the wood block pretty fuzzy and not smooth which is why I'm posting this.

I guess my question is whether the small shavings, or chips if you will, and fuzziness is a result of my inexperience or a characteristic of the wood I'm using, or both? Will hardwoods react the same or differently?

Any input will be helpful and appreciated.

Thanks

Dom

[Allan Ferguson]

Photos would help. Probably the wood used. Glue joints can produce bumpy cutting.

[Scott Hackler]

Dom, construction lumber is very hard to work with a lot of the time. Spruce, pine or Douglas fir are not very hard woods ...generally... and will usually leave a less than desired finish unless you have a razor sharp tool and know exactly what your doing! Both will come with time. The good news it that the wood will easily sand and you can erase the boo boos and wood fuzzys even if you have to start with the "80 grit gouge" in your sanding regiment!

Pictures are encouraged around here as well. Any questions, ask. Don't be shy.

[Reed Gray]

A hands on session with an experienced turner can save years of 'figuring it out' on your own. Find the nearest club and go. Most will have mentors, and the demonstrations are priceless. How the wood cuts depends on a number of things. The type of wood, tool sharpness, and how you present the tool to the wood. There are some good video clips on You Tube, and some bad ones as well. I have a number if you type in robo hippy. Most of mine are geared to bowl turning.

robo hippy

[Dennis Ford]

I agree that some "hands-on" instruction would be a good idea. Your results are typical of both beginners and of the wood you used. It is possible to cut spruce or fir cleanly but it is very difficult. Freshly cut wood is good for learning how the tools work (it is more fun and easier to turn).
Get a short piece of freshly cut wood and split it through the pith, flatten the split and mount that to your faceplate for a more enjoyable experience.

[David Gilbert]

Dom,

Your timing couldn't be better. Next Tuesday evening the Central New York Woodturners have their holiday gathering, here is their website: http://www.cnywoodturners.org/ . This will be a great opportunity to meet some of your neighbors and fellow woodturners. I am sure that they some members who can give you some practical advice and a demo too. I'm over in Webster, so not real close, but if you ever get to Rochester, send me a private message and maybe we can get together.

Cheers,
David

[Ronald Campbell]

The comments are spot on. A club is the best place to learn. And Scott has it right about the construction grade wood. Once you have spent time with a club and skills get better you will turn it with some satisfaction. There are also places where you can pay for lessons, your local Woodcrafts store. I remember my first class like yesterday and was so happy to learn the bowl gouge. One of the best thins I did.

[Thom Sturgill]

If you do not have ready access to green wood, I would suggest that the local big box lumber store might have some poplar in 2x2 and 3x3 dimensions. My local Home Depot had some 1.5" x 1.5" x 36" poplar 'turning squares' for $2.88ea. Poplar still needs a sharp tool and is relatively soft, but will take a clean cut and keep a sharp edge.

By all means, contact a local turning club even if it means a drive. Could be the best money you will spend in the new hobby - it was for me.

[Bruce Lewane]

Take your time. The first bowl I turned was kiln dried cherry. It turned out beautiful and I knew was on my way to a life of master craftsmanship and and artistic fulfillment.
Didn't quite work out that way.I was just at the beginning of the learning curve. You run through you tube and everything else you can find on the internet and you give it your best. At best you're doing trial and error. There are so many variables that come with wood turning. It's one of the reasons everyone on this forum loves doing it.
Yes, find a club if you can, a mentor is also good if that is possible. Follow the rules. Just keep learning and be cautious. Wear your safety gear and try not to be afraid.
The best advise I've ever gotten was " Make every cut like it was your final cut ". If you want it, it will come.

[Dave Cullen]

My local Home Depot had some 1.5" x 1.5" x 36" poplar 'turning squares' for $2.88ea. Poplar still needs a sharp tool and is relatively soft, but will take a clean cut and keep a sharp edge.

Those 1-1/2" squares are awesome. I buy 10 of them whenever they are available. Excellent for cauls and such, and perfect for spindle practice. I've even used them for tool handles.

Framing lumber (or fir / pine in general) is really fuzzy and will test your skills and the sharpness of your tools. Come back to it after you've had some experience with harder woods.