Obviously my experience with color change matter's little here. Again, I never suggested you were wrong....just that there are other experiences out there.
Guest
Obviously my experience with color change matter's little here. Again, I never suggested you were wrong....just that there are other experiences out there.
In Memoriam
Donnie,
I am not arguing at all I am just trying to post accurate information because members use it in their projects
I admire your work and I agree wit you on almost every post!
I am smiling ...but I had a terible night at Design Review....our local board would not approve 3 projects I presented . That is why I love woodworking...I can get advice from friends and then do what I think is right...Architecture is getting real tough!
Originally Posted by Donnie Raines
"All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"
Guest
Well...I am glad that your not arguing with me becuase I suspect I may be on few "others" list today and who knows what will come of that(local stuff...not wood related). I am also flattered that you agree with me in most cases....given your expertise that means alot. Were my camera operational I would snap a few pix of the occasional table and bookcase sitting in front of me in my office. I think you would have a better understanding of where I am coming from. Hopefully the gent who started the thread will acheive the desired look and post for all of us to drool over.
[OP]
Member
Mark, what Tung Oil finish are you using?
Member
Mark and Donnie, I think you are both right. While on a cruse in the Gulf of Mexico a few years ago we stopped on the island of Roatan (I think that's a correct spelling) which is off the cosat of Houduras. They had local crafts for sale, as is always the case, and we bought a nice turned bowl about 12-15" that was made from local "Honduran" mahogany. The bowl is at our place in the country or I would post a picture, however it has both sapwood and heart wood in it. The heart wood is the beautiful brown/red color we associate with this wood, while the sapwood is white. We are going to the country next week so I will try to get a picture to post.
In Memoriam
Matt,
I have been using Daly's Ben Matte from Seattle . There was just a test / comparison in FWW and Min Wax Wie on Poly did very well. It is less money and gave great protection. Most of the Tung oils are polermerized so they dry faster. Pure tung oil takes days to dry and is often mixed with Varnish and Turp to add protection and speed the drying. The General Finishes have a good following , but did not do too well in the test.
"All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"
Member
Mark,
Funny you should bring up the Minwax wipe on poly and the general products in the same sentence. I have so far used nothing but the Minwax in my short time with WW and have had really great experience with it first hand. A friend of mine who is also a member of this forum recommended the General Arm-R and I finally got around to ordering it from Rockler a few days ago and it just arrived today by UPS. I am anxious to give it a shot from all the good things I am hearing about it.
Member
Bob, I think you'll be very happy with the General Finishes product line. I've tried a bunch of different products, including the MinWax line and for overall finish, depth of grain, etc, nothing IMHO beats the general products.
[OP]
Member
I did some testing over the weekend. 3 coats of BLO, the first one applied at 130 degrees. Over that I put a thin coat of shellac and then one coat of wipe on poly (I'll use 2 or 3 coats when its for real.) The finish turned out great. The only drawback is that its currently pretty light colored. I'm going to try adding some Transtint dye to the oil and/or shellac on some test pieces next weekend.
Member
Since we are on the topic of mahogany finish, I was wondering what you all think about using grain filler like por-o-pac or similar on mahogany. I have used it with great results on walnut. I do have some future plans for mahogany pieces and wondered what folks thought about filling the grain.
lou
Moderator
Lou, the filler will work well. After and coloration of the wood and sealing with shellac or whatever...put on the filler. (Never put it on the bare wood, especially the "flavored" versions!) Smooth it out and remove it from the surface with the appropriate rubber paddle. Lightly sand and reapply if necessary. Otherwise, lightly sand and proceed with your finishing regimen.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
I've been very pleased with Seal A Cell and Arm a Seal. Wet sanding between coats, with a very light wet sanding on the final coat (I believe the last one was at 600 grit).
Member
This notion that mahogany gets lighter in tone over time is well borne out and a standard of the antique industry. The only way to make it darker is to stain it or, you can try to keep it at the same color using a finish that has a built in UV block.
In Memoriam
Chris,
In my experience...milling mahogany lightens it and the sun (ultraviolet light) will darken it. So it darkens over time.
This was taken from the internet...
http://www.plesums.com/wood/choosingwood.html
Genuine (Honduras) Mahogany
Mahogany is one of the traditional furniture woods, known for the straight, smooth, semi-open grain with many cross grains, that accepts a fine finish. It is hard and durable, and over the centuries has probably been the primary furniture wood. Much of the current wood is plantation grown in Latin America. The color of the wood ranges from yellow brown to dark reddish brown. With age it becomes a rich dark red-brown. Most mahogany furniture is stained or dyed to accelerate the aging. It is a bit lighter weight than maple, and comparable to oak in strength. It withstands moisture well, so is popular in wooden boats, entry doors, or other outdoor projects. It is easy to work with relatively few defects.
"All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"
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