Don't do this if you don't need to run a moulder head on your SawStop

[johnny means]

Interesting. Does the wire actually have to go up to the arbor, or could it simply come in close proximity to any part if the saw chassis?

The Sawstop arbor is electrically isolated from the rest of the saw. The wire would have to be in close proximity to the blade, the arbor, or some portion of the isolated circuit.

[J.R. Rutter]

I read about that awhile back. Creative idea.

I thought of machining a sleeve for the brake.

Best to just run the parts through a moulder or shaper and feeder.

Dont you have some crazy 5axis moulder JR?

I mentioned this method a while back, but didn't have a picture until this week. My beaded and v-grooved panels are solid reverse raised, then have the details cut in afterwards. It may be debatable, but for cabinet doors, I think it is faster, easier, and better to do it this way as opposed to assembling panels from actual shaped staves. I do have a nice 2-axis, 5-head moulder that can run beadboard staves, but it would create a different set of issues.

[Bob French]

Thank you J.R.! I tried this on my new 3 hp Saw Stop when I went to put my 6" dado on. Bypass mode will not work, but your easy fix did and requires no modification of the saw itself. Just want to mention that my wire touched the loose handle when I raised the table and this shut off the saw, but did not fire the brake. For those who try this, watch for that handle and be sure your wire is routed clear of it.

[Warren Lake]

is the cutter high speed steel or carbide. How would that set up work for cleaning out a haunch? in that case you would be cutting cross grain. Looks like thats the best choice for what you are doing as long as your panel is flat on the table.

[J.R. Rutter]

is the cutter high speed steel or carbide. How would that set up work for cleaning out a haunch? in that case you would be cutting cross grain. Looks like thats the best choice for what you are doing as long as your panel is flat on the table.

Carbide tipped. With a backer fence of some sort it would work for cutting the angle part of the haunch. Still need to clean up the flat portion though. A true hauncher cutterhead has a flat portion between angled sides so that it can do both left and right handed cuts.

[Warren Lake]

no id want an angle both sides and the flat then it have to be the miniumum of my cross rails whatever that is cant remember now. Ive cleaned out several ways have a MOrso chopper but that just does the V first started them on the table saw not too bad I had a fence with stops both sides One guy here think Peter has the digital fences both sides and chopper with the v's and flats ill look up what their narrowest is that has flat and v's both sides thanks on that. Have a few other ideas and someone had made a pnuematic machine here years back with precision guides.

JR what size is that head and what maximum speed does it say? if run on a slider there are different speeds so could change settings

thanks

You know I cross cut since the start with cabinet saws one with an excalibur sliding fences on both sides of my saw, that allowed me stops both sides and could square left side slide right to the stop and cut to length that was a good set up., It fell apart in that the sliding tables were first generation not good for sheet stock but fine for solid. Now with a small slider im already thinking could I put a second slider on the right and digital stops both sides and essential have the same set up only way more accurate and then the stops as well. Maybe reasons it would not work in the past that saw was just dedicated to cross cutting other one for ripping. T hie nice thing with a slide both sides is never having to spin the material round to cut to length

[Jim Becker]

BTW, what do you think of the Magic Moulder?

My cabinet-maker neighbor has used one for years...it's a quality product. He primarily uses it for custom grooving panels like the OP.

[J.R. Rutter]

JR what size is that head and what maximum speed does it say? if run on a slider there are different speeds so could change settings

5 7/8" for the holder/head, and the tips project out from that. 5,200 RPM max.

The Magic Moulder is a handy thing to have. I have one for the saw arbor and one that is 1.25" bore for the shaper. It is balanced pretty well and the cut quality is good.

[Martin Wasner]

5 7/8" for the holder/head, and the tips project out from that. 5,200 RPM max.

The Magic Moulder is a handy thing to have. I have one for the saw arbor and one that is 1.25" bore for the shaper. It is balanced pretty well and the cut quality is good.

I have both as well. I'm shocked at how well the shaper one works.

Supposedly somebody bought up the magic moulder line and is manufacturing heads and plugs again. Had I known they were going under, I would've snatched up a pile of plugs. I only have a handful and there's a pile of them I wish I had. Mostly I use it just like you do, putting beads and grooves in panels.

[Mike Cutler]

Wow! does that cutter head bring back memories.

If you run that cutter head at 2" spacings on the vertical and 3" on the horizontal, and set to about 1/2" the thickness of the wood. It makes really cool speaker front grates, for old air suspension, cabinet style speakers. Some guys ran them on the diagonal, but it was tougher.
Back it up with a little sound foam and you're all set.

[Warren Lake]

more questions sorry to turn you into a salesman how wide is the head. You said they are Carbide can you get one for corrugated as well? then be able to use some shaper knives. could then get the one that is 1 1/4 and bush id down for the table saw as well and it would work on either.

[Joe Calhoon]

Warren,
W Moore has these. I don't know if they make them or just resell after LRH went under. Corrugated will not fit these. Look under plugs and you can see the designs.
https://www.wmooreprofiles.com/table...c-molder-heads

[Jim Becker]

Warren, the concept of the MagicMoulder is that the precision manufactured "plugs" are weight balanced to insure the whole assembly runs smoothly, balanced and vibration free. I suspect that supporting third party cutters wouldn't work for that. As Joe points out, there are a number of great profiles available in native format.

[Warren Lake]

Moore has one for right and left tilt that takes corrugated. its machine recessed around the nut.

Had it in notes from the past. I had asked about getting one made up here and guys said no. They had made a head for my small moulder in the past. I never pursued it as I had two cabinet saws with 5/8" arbors and up here they said no, down there they said busch it up. I didnt think it was such a good idea so passed. Now with the small slider 1" shaft size would be okay, in fact the 1 1/4 one and a bushing then it would work on both machines and take corrugated. weather the Magic moulder carbide would work better than high speed would take some time to test. It would be cutting cross grain so its a different operation. Thanks JR for the specs and Martin for saying it works well. sure the cross grain thing will be different. Martin you said you have both? two sizes of Magic moulder or one Magic and one Moore? If I remember the Moore one had a choice of two or four knives as well will have to look back think the price was a aprrox 300.00 US

[Larry Edgerton]

no id want an angle both sides and the flat then it have to be the miniumum of my cross rails whatever that is cant remember now. Ive cleaned out several ways have a MOrso chopper but that just does the V first started them on the table saw not too bad I had a fence with stops both sides One guy here think Peter has the digital fences both sides and chopper with the v's and flats ill look up what their narrowest is that has flat and v's both sides thanks on that. Have a few other ideas and someone had made a pnuematic machine here years back with precision guides.

JR what size is that head and what maximum speed does it say? if run on a slider there are different speeds so could change settings

thanks

You know I cross cut since the start with cabinet saws one with an excalibur sliding fences on both sides of my saw, that allowed me stops both sides and could square left side slide right to the stop and cut to length that was a good set up., It fell apart in that the sliding tables were first generation not good for sheet stock but fine for solid. Now with a small slider im already thinking could I put a second slider on the right and digital stops both sides and essential have the same set up only way more accurate and then the stops as well. Maybe reasons it would not work in the past that saw was just dedicated to cross cutting other one for ripping. T hie nice thing with a slide both sides is never having to spin the material round to cut to length

That is one of the jobs I keep the SSC dado machine around for, does a surprisingly good job, stops on both sides, and can do multiples. I bought the machine cheap for the router and thought it was kind of a joke, but turns out I was wrong, sometimes it is just what Dr Goodwood ordered.

Morso makes a hauncher,, but its kind of pricy.