Dining table refinishing project

[Brian Kent]

We have decided to refinish the dining table instead of replacing it. Initial test shows that the finish is not dyed. The apron and legs are still unblemished so I will cover them up until the final finishing coat.

I am deciding between mechanical and chemical means.

Mechanical:
1)Scraper
2) Hand sanding or ROS at 120 to 220

Chemical:
1) Use DNA and Lacquer thinner to determine finish.
2) Strip with a Methylene Chloride stripper or NMP (Klean Strip 7).
Question - With these strippers do I even need to do step 1 of determining what kind of finish this is?

Finish:
Waterlox original. 3 coats, wait 30 days, finish with wet & dry and micro abrasives through about 8000 for a semi-gloss.

I am seeking advice, corrections or confirmations that I am on the right track.

Thanks in advance.

Brian Kent

[Steve Schoene]

The first question is whether you are absolutely sure that the top is solid wood. It looks very much like veneer to me, possibly with solid wood on the edges. If veneer, then "mechanical" means of removing the old finish is absolutely ruled out, and frankly chemical stripping is in general a much better method of preparing for new finish. This would be dramatically better if there is any chance that you would want to stain the wood, since unless large amounts of wood are removed, sanded wood won't accept stain evenly since some parts will have greater amounts of old finish which would have penetrated in the pores.

Waterlox is a good varnish, but the Original Finish and Sealer which is formulated for a wipe on application, won't be ready to rub out after only three wiped on coats, and will be very challenging to avoid cutting through the top film.

[John TenEyck]

What Steve said. Just use a MC stripper; it won't matter what the finish is it will take it off. Stay away from sand paper, and I wouldn't use a scraper either, or you will change the underlying patina of the wood and you'll have a lot more work to match the color of the rest of it that you don't need to strip. I would even leave any small dings and scratches alone, especially if it's veneer.

John

[Brian Kent]

Yes, it is veneer. Am I reading correctly that if I use a MC stripper, I will not have to go through the steps of determining the original finish? Are all MC strippers created equal?

[Pat Barry]

I just made a comment on another similar topic. I used lacquer thinner straight out of the can. I used a scraper to remove the dissolved finish - It worked really well. I didn't try the MC stripper. Mine was a cherry veneer. I certainly didn't want to sand it because it looks to be very thin. The scraping did not remove any thickness of the wood. Now I need to strip the legs. I plan to use the lacquer thinner and steel wool. Here is a picture of the top, half way done. Pardon the mess

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> Am I reading correctly that if I use a MC stripper, I will not have to go through the steps of determining the original finish?

Yes, you don't need to specifically identify the finish. A chemical stripper containing methylene chloride will remove almost any finish used on factory furniture. Just carefully follow the directions.

>>>> Are all MC strippers created equal?

Basically yes. They may contain lesser or more Methylene Chloride but that will have little to do with the efficiency of the stripper. In general, if you go to a store look at the ingredients label for "methylene chloride". If there is more than one brand or mixture, choose the one the feels heavier. MC is heavy and you can almost always feel the difference when you pick up the can.

[Brian Kent]

And we begin…

This is going well enough I started to order some waterlox to finish it - and found out it is no longer available in my region. So I started another thread to find out where I can get it or what else to use.


EDIT: I found it. I started with 4 coats of dewaxed shellac, sanded with 320, since I did not think I could get Waterlox. Not necessary but also not harmful now that I found the Waterlox.

[Scott Holmes]

Kent, Remember shellac should not be built up too thick like you can with varnish or lacquer.

[Brian Kent]

Good. Thank you for the reminder.

[Brian Kent]

Epiphanes Varnish for indoor table-top?

Scott, I was re-watching your youtube video on brushing on varnish. I have been using this technique on outdoor furniture with Epiphanes. This time I heard you say you prefer a phenolic varnish for table tops. I looked it up and was led back to Epiphanes. Do I understand correctly that you would use Epiphanes indoors for a dining table?

I can run out today and buy my $30+ can of Waterlox as planned or I can re ach into my finishing cabinet and grab an unopened can of Epiphanes. I understand Waterlox is harder and Epiphanes is more flexible. Is Epiphanes hard enough to withstand light scratches?

So Scott or anyone with experience - Epiphanes for an indoor dining tabletop?

Edit: I am assuming now that the "phenolic varnish" would be something like Behlen's Rockhard, formulated for hardness over flex, and that Epiphanes would not be a good for a table since it is formulated for flex over hardness (even though it has the right key ingredients like "Tung oil, phenolic, and alkyds".

[Scott Holmes]

No I would use a phenolic INTERIOR varnish for an interior table. The exterior finishes are manufactured to be softer and more flexible... this also makes them LESS water and water vapor proof.

Waterlox original is a great phenlic resin varnish which also happens to be made with tung oil. Tung oil's true claim to fame is: varnishes made with tung oil are better at waterproofing and vapor proofing than varnishes made with linseed oil.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you so much, Scott. I got some Waterlox original today and wiped on the first coat.

[Harry Hagan]

Brian,
Your table top looks exactly like the Thomasville table I purchased years ago that had the finish fail after a few years. A furniture repair man that was in my home recently said that he’d been hired by the local Thomasville dealer to repair dozens of tables like mine due to the faulty finish.

My table is supposed to be a pecan/hickory veneer. If you figured out the right refinishing process: strip, stain/dye, sealer, top coat, etc., I’d appreciated details on the steps you took.