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Thread: Charred Rim Cherry Bowl

  1. #16
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    I tried to scorch a cherry bowl once several months back, the flame just made the wood crack - lots of checks as the heat drove out the moisture in the wood (not green, but probably still 12-15%), especially on the end grain. I muct have done it wrong. I was unhappy with my experiment.

    Yours, however, looks to have worked out great. It's handsome as is, but it sparks me to thinking about doing wide rims at angles other than perpendicular to the rise or with convex or concave faces. Don't stop trying new things! There's always more wood.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Burr View Post
    .... What do you think the difference would have been with dye vs burning...just texture? ..........
    Jim, since half the rim had light sapwood, I wasn't sure using black dye would be that even. I figured that burned wood would all look the same no matter what! I also wanted to try something a bit different and thought the contrast in texture might be helpful in framing the bowl in the middle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug W Swanson View Post
    I think the only thing I would change would be to have the grooves in the rim a little wider (or maybe a couple more). Otherwise the black really goes well with the cherry. I like the form, too!
    Doug, adding the oil darkened the grooves and made them disappear to some extent. If they were all the consistent width of their widest point I think they would then be ok. I was hesitant to make them too wide since I was unable to do them evenly! My wife suggested the possibility of adding another groovee in the middle but I am pretty minimal when it comes to embellishment and try to resist too much of a good thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Hughto View Post
    I tried to scorch a cherry bowl once several months back, the flame just made the wood crack - lots of checks as the heat drove out the moisture in the wood (not green, but probably still 12-15%), especially on the end grain. I muct have done it wrong. I was unhappy with my experiment.

    Yours, however, looks to have worked out great. It's handsome as is, but it sparks me to thinking about doing wide rims at angles other than perpendicular to the rise or with convex or concave faces. Don't stop trying new things! There's always more wood.
    Sean, if I am not mistaken, Nick Cook suggested using kiln dried wood when doing this. I don't know how dry mine was after not quite a year. Not to the initial level after kiln drying I am sure. I went pretty light with the torch. I went over it a second time after sponging it off, but again very lightly and not in the spot it cracked on the first go round. In the demo I watched, it was burned at least 3 or 4 times with a scrub in between.

    Thanks again for your thoughts and suggestions. Gives me things to think about and try next time. Now if I can just remember them.......

  3. #18
    I've done several scorched rim plates out of kiln dried and every one of them moved. There seems to be no getting around it. Some of them tend to move back after cooling and equalizing, and some stay bent.

    One of the things I've done to compensate for the movement is to leave it all thick enough so that I can turn each edge of the scorched area into a bead which frames the black nicely. And I agree, the scorch looks really good against cherry.
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  4. #19
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    I like the color contrast as well. Nick says his favorite wood to burn is Ash, or a wood with pronounced grain lines. He burns the rim, then sands it. Sanding will remove some of the burning from the softwood more than it will from the heartwood, which adds more visual contrast.

  5. #20
    I like the contrast, and the little bead around the edge. I've not tried burning cherry, but now must add it to the list. I've go a fair amount of cherry at my disposal, so If you need some, let me know.
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  6. #21
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    I really like the top of the bowl and the burn works nicely. I think it would look better if the bottom came up to the edge of the rim. a down turned rim would work in that case. I am partial to thicker bowl.
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  7. #22
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    Jun 2007
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    Baxter:
    This is a very unique and lovely piece. After the burn, I next noticed and liked the downward curving rim. Go figure. Thinking that the two grooves could be a bit broader but I also understand the rationale for keeping it subtle. Very nice experimental piece.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Underwood View Post
    .....One of the things I've done to compensate for the movement is to leave it all thick enough so that I can turn each edge of the scorched area into a bead which frames the black nicely.....
    Jim, I actually left the rim thick on this one before burning so I could remove it if I didn't like it. I then went back and took the extra off the backside when I decided it was ok. It was only when I contemplated adding the grooves later that I considered the movement. It never occured to me that the burning caused the movement though it probably did. I was thinking that it was the thinning of the rim. The inner groove was relatively even because it was still supported by the bowl.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Scott View Post
    I like the color contrast as well. Nick says his favorite wood to burn is Ash, or a wood with pronounced grain lines. He burns the rim, then sands it. Sanding will remove some of the burning from the softwood more than it will from the heartwood, which adds more visual contrast.
    Pat I used a green 3M pad on this one. The Ash should have a nicer texture though I think I could have gottten a bit more with the cherry. It was only after noticing the crack that I decided I had enough texture!
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Myroup View Post
    ........... I think it would look better if the bottom came up to the edge of the rim.....
    More of an ogee shape Jeff? For some reason I was thinking lightness and ease of picking up. Not sure why.

    Thanks again for the feedback! Things to consider for next time!

  9. #24
    I love the look! I bet it will only look better as the cherry ages.

    What exactly was your process? Once you torched the rim, did you take a wire brush to it? Did the oil prevent the soot/ash from coming off on your fingers once applied?

  10. #25
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    Thanks Scott. This was a while ago and I haven't tried it since. Someday..... After burning, I just rubbed off the charring with a damp green scotchbrite if I am remembering correctly. If you try this, my suggestion would be to go slowly on achieving the level of charring you want. Burn a little, wipe off, repeat. Trying to achieve it too soon might lead to cracking. I went over all the spots two or three times with the torch, but perhaps 5 or more with wiping in between would have done a better job of preventing any cracking.
    The cherry has darkened a lot. When it gets a little brighter out, I will try and get a quick picture.

  11. #26
    I've always liked cherry & the black really sets it off.
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