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Thread: Router Table Attachment

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    389

    Router Table Attachment

    I'm more than halfway through my router table build (plywood cabinet, glu-lam table support between the cabinet, 1.5 laminated MDF, formica on each side, dual locking casters, etc)

    One thing I have not been able to answer using the search function is how the table surface itself (MDF/formica lamination) is attached to the cabinet and support rails. Pocket screws? Brackets?

    For those of you that have built your own router tables, or used a frefab top on top of your cabinet, how did you attach the table top??

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,797
    I pocket screwed an insert to each corner of the base cabinet and then sunk one screw through the insert into the bottom of the top. The insert was 4"x4" and the screw was 3" away from each side. Since the cabinet is providing the vertical support, all that is needed is the lateral support. having only two pocket screws allows the inserts to flex and not to place much tension on the top to bent it out of flat. Three years old and still flat.

  3. #3
    I have a pre-made top (Jessem) and I just use small L brackets to hold the top on my cabinet. I used 4, one in each corner of the cabinet.

    My cabinet is made of 3/4" plywood and has 4 supports for the table. I used my Lee Valley steel straight edge to make sure everything was flat before I mounted the top.
    I did have to shim it a little on the center supports, I just used blue painters tape and after the table was mounted for awhile I went back and checked it.

    This is my little table before I put the face frame on and installed the drawers.

    Router-table.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,513
    Blog Entries
    1
    After learning about sag, my second table used a robust support system. I doubled the outer 3/4" BB ply walls of the cabinet and used additional doubled strips of 3/4" BB ply on edge to make ribs. The ribs/sides run like so:

    jIM-TOP.jpg

    This method allows shimming should it become necessary. I drilled through holes in the ribs, MDF-appropriate pilot holes in the underside of the top and used washer head screws designed for composites. Been dead flat for years.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

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