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Thread: Opinion needed: Autosol metal polish, Lee Valley woodworking

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Virginia, USA
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    32

    Opinion needed: Autosol metal polish, Lee Valley woodworking

    Hello,

    Does someone have experience using this Autosol metal polish on tools? it's in the Lee Valley new items section. From the ad it looks like a definite "patina" killer so I'd keep it away from vintage items. But I have some newer users that will not be antiques while i'm still breathing. Is it good for cleaning and protecting users? How about corrosion busting on rust-bucket user rehabs? Any info would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Kevin Foley

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    32
    I'll answer my own question. Autosol from the Lee valley website wasn't expensive so I added it to an order and tried it out on various metals on vintage users and newer tools. Here's what I found if anyone is interested in this product.

    1) Rusted cast iron:
    I did not expect this to act as a remover of heavy rust but the first piece I tried it on was a spare stanley lever cap covered with fine dark rust. A heavy application rubbed on with a cloth removed the loose fine material and left a dark tarnished surface. More Autosol would have eventually removed discoloration but there are other products that are more suited to this use. As I said I didn't expect that Autosol was meant for this.

    2) Patinated machined cast iron:

    I tried it next on the cheeks of a ca. 1900 Stanley No.4 user, dark patina. I was surprised to find that this product is NOT a patina killer per se. A liberal application and vigorous rub lightened the patina a bit, loosened grime, and left a smooth, clean feeling surface that retained most but not all of the color of age. It's a much better finish than left by other cleaning methods such as 0000 steel wool. I like keeping the tool's appearance of age and having it clean.

    3) Steel plate:

    I applied it to the sides of a dovetailed steel, user, post-war Norris No.5. As above, the patina was lightened and the surface cleaned but the appearance of age was left mostly intact. I feel this is again a good fit for this type of user tool.

    4) Brass:

    When applied to the lever cap and cap screw of the Norris 5 I found that it aggressively cleans brass. Brass brightens quickly with little effort and it leaves less residue in knurling than other brass cleaners like Brasso. Probably good for new and older user tools but it's that brighter-than-new shine that most wont want on antiques.

    5) New bronze:

    On the the LN-140 bronze skew block, it again provided a quick clean and high shine which I like to keep on new users but it will make short work of patina on any older tool.

    6) New ductile iron:

    Applied to an LN 112 it was cleaned quickly but slightly darkened.

    The place I store my tools is slightly below grade and humidity that causes surface rust is an issue. I've been keeping cast iron and steel tools waxed but I'm going to try this product on all my cast iron users and see how it compares. I like the cleaning properties and that it doesn't remove all the color of old iron tools. I won't be getting using it on antiques -- or any other product except wax -- or an any vintage brass tools or parts.

    FWIW

    Kevin

  3. #3
    Thanks for the report. My understanding is that it's from Germany, it's intended for brightwork like stainless or chrome stuff on automobiles, and I've read that some people like to use it as a stropping agent for chisels since it's slightly abrasive. I heard about it from machinist types who restore or maintain old metal lathes. The gist was that a lot of people liked it, especially for finer or more critical stuff, but I was unable to find it locally. It's good that Lee Valley stocks it. I'll get some with my next order.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824

    Metal polishes...

    Flitz is my personal favorite, primarily with musical instruments.

    It leaves a film, and resists further corrosion.

    http://www.amazon.com/Flitz-Internat.../dp/B001447VB2

    It may be worthwhile to drop a purveyor a line on this;

    http://thepolishguy.com/category/autosol/

    I've heard of Barkeeper's friend in an oil slurry for this purpose.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    Autosol is used by the Conservation Dept. of Williamsburg.

  6. #6
    Sorry that I missed this one. Autosol is the most aggressive fine polish that I have seen. try puttings some of it on MDF - it'll cut just as fast as a good 8000 stone, and it's probably similar in fineness. As far as I know, what's in it is aluminum oxide, which is just about everywhere in woodworking sharpening and abrasives.

    The company that makes autosol makes tons of other polishes. I've used both autosol and dursol - for both polishing and sharpening.

    They don't necessarily remove the patina, as you've seen, but they shine it up some.

    The darker hue to new cast is because you have some residue left that was abraded off. You'll notice how fast a cloth you're using will turn black on cast or steel - a clear indication that it is removing metal.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    224
    Autosol is primarly for cleaning and polishing chromed surfaces ( or maybe clean metal surfaces like Stainless, brass etc ) . It is by far the best polish I've ever used on chromed car parts.
    Also works for blotched or dirty SS sinks and the likes.....not a rust remover......

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