Are gloves safe

[David Woodruff]

I do use tight fitting leather gloves when rough turning. The gouge I use is long enough that I am several inches from the work piece and I use my own designed, high profile, tool rest as a guard. My left hand rides rides the flange at the bottom and protected by the angled piece upon which the tool is supported when cutting. Use a long gouge with full round tang that is embedded 4" into the handle. Roughing gouges I use are 3/4" , 7/8" and 1". I have trashed several flat tang chisels, flat tangs just can not withstand the leveraged forces generated by aggressive roughing. Also I check new gouges for embedded handle depth and drill deeper if needed. My favorite gouges are the larger Glaser's and round tang Sorby;s. I have not worn any finger jewelry in 20 years: 24/7/365 (hours per day, days per week, days per year). Also have not had the Rolex on in 20 years, I would sell it but it was my Dad's from whom I learned at an early age the basic essentials of wood and metal working. It seems the experiences learned from an early age are well understood. Wish they had computers in 1940.

[Scott Crumpton]

I'll use a nitrile glove on my left hand when working wet woods, particularly those that stain, and on my right for finishing operations. They tear so easily that I consider them safe.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this trick. Whenever I have issues with hot shavings or sharp chips I simply apply a short piece of duct tape (the cheep stuff, not gorilla tape) over the side of my hand and down over the little finger. Just enough to cover the area having the problem. I do not wrap it around the hand or finger, 1/3 of the circumference of the finger at most. The tape works quite well to deflect the chips and heat, and it will pull off almost as easily as a nitrile glove will rip.