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Thread: Doughnut chuck question.

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Doughnut chuck question.

    I am going to make a doughnut chuck for my 12" lathe and I was wondering what size metal faceplate I should attach it to? My fp would be around 11.5".

    Do you guys make a wooden fp or do you use a metal fp?

    What would be the best place to get a fp say 3", 4" or 6"?

    Thanks.
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  2. #2
    Jack, it will depend on your lathe, but I got this 4" faceplate for my Delta 46-460 donut chuck and it works fine.

    http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CF4J.html

  3. #3
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    Jack,

    I have a beall tap so a made a wooden face plate. On my smaller donut chuck I use a recess and put in on my chuck. I have also seen fellows the put on a piece of wood as a tenon and use the chuck.

  4. #4
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    Jack,

    I made an 11" diameter donut chuck a couple years ago with a tenon that fit on my NOVA G3 chuck and it has worked out fine. I made the tenon as small in diameter as I could for the G3 so it would give me the maximum holding power.

  5. #5
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    The donut chuck will be with you for a while. I recommend using a good metal faceplate (3" or so) that will hold up to multiple installations and possibly some good size objects and quality wood disk. There is often some imbalance also that adds to loading on attachment and disk. I use the Beale threading for jam chucks made out of MDF and those work well, but I don't expect them to last even when hardening the threads with CA or shellac.

  6. #6
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    Green Valley, Az.
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    Any size faceplate will do the job. Plan on leaving it on, so you'll need an extra faceplate. I don't know what size spindle you have, but any the supplyers such as Packard, Craft suppies, etc. has them for sale.

    Wally

  7. #7
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    Well I just bought a beall 1x8 tap a couple weeks ago but I think I will go ahead and purchase a metal fp. Guess I will look for a 4" fp. Thanks.
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  8. #8
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    Jack I use a 3" face plate on both of my donut chucks.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Might consider Noble Cheap Faceplates. Have him face them off flat (extra dollar or two). Economical choice for items requiring a dedicated FP that will not be removed for use elsewhere. Think I still have two available for new stuff (of the five I purchased), so three are in "dedicated" service.
    Richard in Wimberley

  10. #10
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    Jack - another option for you... I made a wooden faceplate that I screw onto my cole jaws. The advantage of using the Talon chuck - everything remains centered.
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
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  11. #11
    I like the use of a steel or alum. faceplate for the added stability on the spindle after repeated uses. Tapping one with the beall taps works fine but remember that you're going to be not only mounting the backer plate of the donut chuck but the donut, bowl and hardware to keep it all together.

    This adds significant weight to the whole and I like the idea of a metal faceplate taking it better than threaded wood. JMHO

    As for the size of said faceplate... That would depend.
    The larger the faceplate the more stable the whole will be. Less prone to slight warping and better resistance to pressure the further out from center you're turning. That having been said, with a larger (6") face plate, you have less room for bolting the donut on if you intend to use it for bowls less than or equal to the size of the faceplate. Unless you have multiple concentric holes in said faceplate or are willing to have all donuts be larger than the faceplate regardless of the inner cutout.

    Nothing wrong with that but my old yankee instincts see that as a waste of plywood.

    Whatever options you use, I'd strongly suggest counter sinking the donut(s) to recess the head of the bolts you'll use to keep them as close to flush with the face of the donut as possible to reduce foul language and unintended skin removal. (Don't ask me how I know this...)

    GL

    Jim

  12. #12
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    After looking around the internet I think I am going to get a 3" fp from PSI. I currently only have one fp so after reviewing some prices I think I will go with the don pencil fps and the fp centering guide to use on other things. Anyone have the don pencil centering guide and is it worth the $10?
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  13. #13
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    I have Don Pencil's faceplates and centering guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Gaskins View Post
    ...Anyone have the don pencil centering guide and is it worth the $10?
    I have Don's centering guide and think it was a good investment. You can make your own fairly simply, but I like Don's product. I also like his faceplates. Well worth the money.
    David Walser
    Mesa, Arizona

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Schlumpf View Post
    Jack - another option for you... I made a wooden faceplate that I screw onto my cole jaws. The advantage of using the Talon chuck - everything remains centered.
    Steve,
    Do you have a picture of your set up? I'm having trouble visualizing it.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Barronett, WI
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    When I made mine, I bought a 1x8tpi nut (fits my headstock), drilled and carved out a hole in a block of hardwood (I think it was oak) to fit the nut, epoxied the nut in the hole. Then after mounting it on the lathe, I turned it round. Then mounted the round plywood to the block. It's worked great and it only cost me $1.80 for the nut.

    Bill

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