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Thread: Electical boxes inlaid to in for a standard cover.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    St Louis, Missouri
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    77

    Electical boxes inlaid to in for a standard cover.

    OK, so I goofed up... wont be the last. I installed my 110 electrical boxes prior to installing the drywall...thought I was doing it correctly. After I put up the drywall about half of the outlets (4) are to far back for the cover to go on.

    Anybody have the same issue. Its about 3/16 in to far. I could put spacers on the screws that hold the outlet to the electrical box but not sure if that would be wise.

    Suggestions?
    Last edited by Rich Johnson; 02-07-2010 at 4:15 PM. Reason: clairification

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Macomb Township Michigan
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    205
    I had the same issues when I used 5/8 drywall. Luck for us Lowes sells spacers to push the outlet out a bit. I will try to find a link
    Thank you,
    Scott Gibbons

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Macomb Township Michigan
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    205
    They are called box extenders
    http://www.texastoolbox.com/tile-backsplash.html
    Thank you,
    Scott Gibbons

  4. #4
    For an amount so small our sub contractors often just make a wire spacer for the receptacle. They simply use the small nose of their wire strippers or a pair of needle nose and winds a small coil (looks like a spring) out of scraps of ground wire. They simply make as many rounds as needed to shim the receptacle out to the face of the drywall then cut it off and slide it over the screw. Of course if you have to go a long way you would need a longer screw than those supplied with your receptacles.

    In commercial work, for something as small as 3/16" you will often see electricians bend the plaster ears on the receptacles back (the little loops) so that they hit the metal box.

    All you are trying to do is get to a point where when you shove a plug into the receptacle you dont crack the face plate, or bend it in the case of a metal plate.

    The wire spring seems to be the best method though personally I would fold the plaster ears AND do the spring as it supports the receptacle and keeps it from rocking left to right over time. When you bent the plaster ears there is always the option that over time you will unbend them shoving the plug in.

    Mark

  5. #5
    For such a small gap, there's no reason you can't just stack some washers between the plug and the box.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Upstate NY
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    154
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Gibbons View Post
    I had the same issues when I used 5/8 drywall. Lucky for us Lowes sells spacers to push the outlet out a bit. I will try to find a link
    Yes Loews, or HD sell small plastic shims that can be folded & stacked to push out your receptacles. Or as someone else stated, washers can be used, and again it was stated elsewhere here, you may need to purchase longer screws.

    Sorry, no links from me.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep, to gain what he cannot lose

    Jack

  7. Technically you probably need box extenders by code. No combustible material may be exposed. I can't remember off the top of my head but I believe you may only have a 1/8" gap. Plus box extenders with ears like in the first link will sit flush to the wall and make things much easier than trying to stack washers. or use the little plastic spacers.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Freund View Post
    Technically you probably need box extenders by code. No combustible material may be exposed. I can't remember off the top of my head but I believe you may only have a 1/8" gap. Plus box extenders with ears like in the first link will sit flush to the wall and make things much easier than trying to stack washers. or use the little plastic spacers.
    You can extend a box 3/8" or more without needing an extender. Most fixed extenders start at 3/8". Plastic slide in extenders are of course infinite in their adjust ability.

    We have to remember we are talking 3/16" of an inch here. Slightly more than a a couple of coins. Most drywall nibs on nail up plastic boxes are SET at 3/8" to allow a slight setback from the drywall face. Your start point is 1/8", god forbid your box lands on a joint where you will have additional plaster/compound built out.

    We are not talking about adding a layer of 1/2" drywall here. There is a reason why your receptacles come with screws as long as they are.

    Mark

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Atlanta, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Johnson View Post
    ....Its about 3/16 in to far. I could put spacers on the screws that hold the outlet to the electrical box but not sure if that would be wise........
    That's done all the time. Getcha some little rubber washers in the faucet repair aisle.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    St Louis, Missouri
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    77
    Thanks all...dont feel so stilly now reading all the answers. I knew the Creeker's would come through.

  11. #11
    NEC:

    Section 314.20 of the National Electrical Code requires:


    "In wall or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster or other noncombustible material, boxes shall be installed so that the front edge of the box will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1/4 in.).
    In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom."

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by David Prince View Post
    NEC:

    Section 314.20 of the National Electrical Code requires:


    "In wall or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster or other noncombustible material, boxes shall be installed so that the front edge of the box will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1/4 in.).
    In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom."
    See, perfectly acceptable and within code

    Mark

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