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Thread: Question about cutting Acrylic

  1. #1
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    Question about cutting Acrylic

    Just have a question about cutting 1/8th inch clear cast acrylic . I was cutting out some 5"x5" snowflakes and the edges seamed to get charred or wicked. After vector cutting I washed them and tried to clean up the edges by wiping them down but you can still see that there is burn marks here and there. Is this normal ? or do I have to adjust my settings.
    I have a VL 200 30W
    The vector settings I used were 100p and 0.4 S and 1000 ppi.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by kyna cass View Post
    Just have a question about cutting 1/8th inch clear cast acrylic . I was cutting out some 5"x5" snowflakes and the edges seamed to get charred or wicked. After vector cutting I washed them and tried to clean up the edges by wiping them down but you can still see that there is burn marks here and there. Is this normal ? or do I have to adjust my settings.
    I have a VL 200 30W
    The vector settings I used were 100p and 0.4 S and 1000 ppi.
    When I cut .125" cast acrylic I remove the mask from the top surface and leave it on the bottom. Also air assist and a vector cutting grid makes for better edge quality.

    Neal

  3. #3
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    Thank you , I will try that !!)

  4. #4
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    I love simple solutions ! Worked perfectly..

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyna cass View Post
    JI have a VL 200 30W
    The vector settings I used were 100p and 0.4 S and 1000 ppi.
    That looks like way too much power. Standard setting for 30W is 65P 0.5S 1000PPI, but that's for 0.2" acrylic. For 1/8" (which is probably really 0.11" or something like that), I'd start at 50P 0.7S and adjust the speed up/down until it just barely cuts through consistently. (Or stay with 100P and bump the speed up to 1.0-1.5.)
    Last edited by Lee DeRaud; 12-05-2009 at 2:47 PM.
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud View Post
    That looks like way too much power. Standard setting for 30W is 65P 0.5S 1000PPI, but that's for 0.2" acrylic. For 1/8" (which is probably really 0.11" or something like that), I'd start at 50P 0.7S and adjust the speed up/down until it just barely cuts through consistently. (Or stay with 100P and bump the speed up to 1.0-1.5.)

    The settings I use are 100P/2.2-2.8Speed/500PPI
    Epilog Mini 24 - 50 watt with Rotary Attachment
    Gravograph (New Hermes) M-40 Rotary Engraver
    Gravograph (New Hermes) M-40G Rotary Engraver with Rotary Base Fixture
    Ricoh GelSprinter GX e7700N Dye-Sublimation Printer
    George Knight DK-20S Heat Press
    George Knight DK-3 Mug Press (x2)

    Corel X7; Photograv 3.03; LaserExpress, Adobe CS5.5
    Vinyl Express GRC-61 - 24" Vinyl Cutter
    And other stuff I don't know how to use

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Erwin View Post
    The settings I use are 100P/2.2-2.8Speed/500PPI
    Power and PPI values map ok between different brand/model lasers of the same power, but not speed since the max speeds may not match.
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  8. #8
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    [IMG]file:///C:/Users/kyna/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]Thank you guys
    My snowflakes are perfect now! No burnt edges. [IMG]file:///C:/Users/kyna/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by kyna cass; 12-06-2009 at 1:49 AM.

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