Can anyone tell me why a right tilt is any better than a left tilt tablesaw? I'm going to be upgrading, this year, any feedback on the steel City 3 hp cabinet saw with granite top? Thanks in advance.
Dale Morris
Can anyone tell me why a right tilt is any better than a left tilt tablesaw? I'm going to be upgrading, this year, any feedback on the steel City 3 hp cabinet saw with granite top? Thanks in advance.
Dale Morris
Neither is "better". Tilt direction is really a matter of preference but there are differences both pro and con. The main advantage of left tilt is that the blade tilts away from the fence on a bevel cut, which is considered safer. But there's also the benefit that the arbor nut goes on from the right side, which favors putting it on with your right hand...it'll also have a normal thread orientation. Now for the downside...because the arbor flange is on the left, the right edge of the blade is registered to the zero reference of the tape cursor so blade thickness can effect the zero reference if you change blade thicknesses...like from full kerf to thin kerf. The work arounds are to either recalibrate the cursor, use a shim as a space to offset the thickness of a thinner blade, or measure by hand and ignore the saw's tape. There's also the benefit of having much lower likelihood of ever needing the rip capacity on the left side of the blade, meaning it's possible to slide the rail over to the right to gain some extra capacity on the right using the stock rails....you can get an extra 10" or so with most.
Right tilt has the arbor flange on the right, so the right side of the blade registers against the flange meaning blade thickness changes don't make any difference. The blade tilts to the right toward the fence which creates a bit of a hazard....the work around is to move the fence to the left of the blade and do bevel cuts on that side, which is a less familiar operation, so has different hazards in itself. The arbor nut mounts from the left side and has reverse thread orientation, which requires left hand mounting...it's a minor thing to some but I found it a constant nuisance that I'd rather not deal with.
I've owned both and prefer LT....YMMV.
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Very good explaination, thanks.
Dale
Dale,
Left tilt for me. If you do a search, you should be able to find more information than you will need.
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The only time I can see that a right tilt would be preferred, to someone who is neutral on the subject , is if you were going to add a sliding table. Then it is better. At least that is what I understand. Never had a RT and never had a sliding table. Jim.
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Scott is right. I just want to get that out there so no one goes ballistic. Now that I have posted my disclaimer, I used to answer these questions (attempting humor) as: Left-tilt=right, right-tilt=wrong but folks got so excited they didn't get the joke. Hope you do. They are both "right", it's a preference-thing. I like left, I just "feel" safer.
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Left tilt just happens to be what Im used to personally, although my friend has a right tilt unisaw and there are time I can see advantages for both. There is no right or wrong really.
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and since the majority of saw uses are not tilted at all, I don't think that it amounts to a hill of frijoles. What ya learned on is what you're comfy with.
If I gotta do a bunch of rip miters, I just move the fence to the left side of the Freudilator.
Bill
On the other hand, I still have five fingers.
Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas.
No, I'm not an electrician. Any information I share is purely what I would do myself. If in doubt, hire an electrician!
Member of the G0691 fan club!
At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...Most likely I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, s3.
Is that indeed true that cutting a bevel on a right tilt is more dangerous? My understanding is that the reasoning is that the board is wedged against the fence and therefore could bind up. But isn't that true for all straight cuts? The board is always wedged against the fence, it has to be in order to get the desired dimensions. Am I missing something?
Scott,
How would your hands be any farther from the blade, or any closer to the blade either way?
It is all a matter of orientation, the blade will be the same distance from the fence for the cut. I understand what you are saying, but it seems it's mostly because of habit, you feel more comfortable with the blade on the left side of the fence.
I have a right tilt saw, but used to have a left tilt. I like the orientation of the blade on the left side of the fence myself, however, seeing that I use my table saw for mostly ripping at 90 degrees, and do so on the left side of the blade anyway, there is really not much difference in use. I do make beveled cuts occasionally, just not very often as the table saw is really only used for dimensioning stock for me. One way around that situation is to use a sled, a lot of folks even do that on left tilt blades.
I noticed you got rid of your zipcode saw...was not completely shocked, but surprised. I still remember wanting to buy your General, just too far logistically for me at the time...I really can't ask for more table saw, I think I'm done unless I was to find a slider, but I'm content with my 1600# of cast iron, and 5HP can chomp through anything I have thrown at it. Was cutting 2 5/8" thick stock last week with it. For me that's a pretty hefty cut, 3" exposed above the table, about the highest I like to work with it, but I can get 4 5/8" if really needed when I put a 16" blade on it. I was using a 14" blade, so only get 3 5/8", but still...ripping 2 5/8" thick stock is not something I often do. Still, 3" of blade exposed is a lot for me. I normally cut 4/4 or 8/4.
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