Input on Walnut stain match on refinish piece.

We (I, hot dagger in the eye) accepted a job from a good customer in a pinch feeding a huge commercial project and one element of the job is re-hab'ing an existing boat shape conference table (50" x 168") that has sentimental value to the project. This conference table is not a bespoke piece and could absolutely be purchased for less than the cost of re-working the table that said it is what it is. Table is 2" tapered legs, 2x4 walnut apron, and a 2 piece top with a field of 1.5" Walnut ply with a solid border (8/4x3.5")

All parts cut down to bare wood and the color variation in the Walnut is wild even on the sawn material. What Ive done in the past is run a stain on the lighter material that will bring it to match the darker material and bring in a gallon of stain base to cut the stain to the darken the lighter pieces (several cuts). This will be using either Sherwin BAC or MLC WoodsongII (more than likely Sherwin as our MLC rep is over an hour away).

This is not a job that will allow for days and days of dry time so things like Watco, Rubio, are a no go and they also dont allow for darkening of the lighter parts. These are all existing parts we have zero control over and zero option to change what they are. The components of the table are what they are.

All of this will be top coated with 2K period.

Architect has spec'd the color match in the photo and the topcoat. Any input on the process of lightening the stain with base is welcomed. Keep in mind this is a commercial project and not some bespoke work. It needs to (and will) look phenomenal but is not a project that affords some 3 month process.

P.S. Photo shows a leg and an apron component (and of course the architects chip) for reference just to show the spread in the color on raw material. Mel? John? Brian? Dave? et al?
Attachment 469187

Mark, I’m honored to be in the bunch….especially since I don’t know much about finishes! I’m guessing the apron color will be shaded some
by the top. But many can cite patrons shining a light on all parts to check “the match”.

The architect's chip looks a lot like my Rubio coated walnut! Sorry, couldn't resist. Wow, the leg is so much lighter than the apron. My initial thought would be to dye the lighter stuff until it matches the darkest parts, then use BAC wiping stain to get it to match the chip, with whatever adjustment is needed to account for any shift caused by the 2K.

If the light parts are uniform in color, just lighter, your job is a lot easier than what you would have to deal with with sapwood running in/out of a piece. If true, you should be able to dye those pieces by spraying or wiping them with the dye mix. I suppose you could do the same thing all with the BAC wiping stain, but I prefer the two product approach because the dye won't mask the grain as much as the BAC will, unless that's a good thing. If you'd rather have less grain definition then the all BAC approach would be a good approach.

Hopefully, you'll be able to try out a couple of approaches on surfaces that won't show. Having to do it w/o test specimens would not be my idea of fun. If that's how you have to do it, buy some stripper, too.

Good luck. Looks like fun.

John

Agreed.. your rubio looks spot on but not going to do much for color balance. Mel is right the apron is less of an issue but that a leg/apron in the image so not a good intersection. Top is much more even toned but not dark hence my leaning towards bac.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John TenEyck

The architect's chip looks a lot like my Rubio coated walnut! Sorry, couldn't resist. Wow, the leg is so much lighter than the apron. My initial thought would be to dye the lighter stuff until it matches the darkest parts, then use BAC wiping stain to get it to match the chip, with whatever adjustment is needed to account for any shift caused by the 2K.

If the light parts are uniform in color, just lighter, your job is a lot easier than what you would have to deal with with sapwood running in/out of a piece. If true, you should be able to dye those pieces by spraying or wiping them with the dye mix. I suppose you could do the same thing all with the BAC wiping stain, but I prefer the two product approach because the dye won't mask the grain as much as the BAC will, unless that's a good thing. If you'd rather have less grain definition then the all BAC approach would be a good approach.

Hopefully, you'll be able to try out a couple of approaches on surfaces that won't show. Having to do it w/o test specimens would not be my idea of fun. If that's how you have to do it, buy some stripper, too.

Good luck. Looks like fun.

John

---

BAC option will play out well. Same two parts. BAC matched to be able to push the lightest parts to match in a single stain application. Darker raw parts get full stain cut with some base. Not having any test parts (other than legs/aprons) had me nerve wracked but simple.
Attachment 469624

The answer to your question is DYE. Not stain.

This office was 30% sapwood when I got there...Attachment 469665 One of the doors had an entire frame piece that was sapwood.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scott Holmes

The answer to your question is DYE. Not stain.

This office was 30% sapwood when I got there...Attachment 469665 One of the doors had an entire frame piece that was sapwood.

---

Yeah, Im aware of the dye factor but this is not a bespoke job and I needed something as simple and fast as possible. The above match is a single step, 20 minute dry time before going to clear, and done. I have most definitely had the sap problems on other jobs and need to get on that train for Walnut but the bulk of the work I do even with Walnut is not going to pay for multi-step finishing. On a job that requires dark I would be sourcing or grading out heartwood only to save the time in the finish process.

Thanks.