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As the title says, How do I color match prefinished maple plywood. I'm building cabinets with prefinished maple plywood with face frames. What finish do I use to finish the face frame to match the prefinished maple? I've searched this site and the web without much info. TIA
You probably won't find any recipes because of the variation in color of both the plywood and more so in the maple you are using. Post some photos with the most accurate colors you can and we'll try to offer some advice.
John
Bob — I just want to make sure we understand how you are using the plywood … I typically only used the prefinished plywood for the carcass (sides, bottom, back) and make the face frame from solid wood … and boy is it helpful to not have to finish the interior of the cabinet(s). The plywood is only visible on the interior (when you open a door or drawer). I make no attempt to try and match the exterior solid wood components (face frame, doors, drawer fronts) to the interior pre-finished plywood, since you sort of never see them at the same time.
I'm using the 2 sided pre finished for the carcass. I'm using solid hard maple for the face frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Bain
Very hard to do accurately. UV maple comes in all different colors, even in the same stack. It's also mostly rotary cut so the grain won't match either. Just plan on making glued up panels for the visible ends. They look much better and will match your FF stock.
Dan
I have to agree with Dan here. Pre-finished carcase exteriors are fine for shop-grade work, but the variability in color and the typically rotary cut veneer isn't generally considered pleasing for "show". (that is, of course, subjective) There are various types of finished used for prefinished maple plywood and shelving material and factory applied finishes can react in different ways with the underlying material. Personally, I'd do the end panels, too. They can even be .25" material with a quality veneer installed flat to match your intended face frame with or without simulated frame and panel made of .25" solid stock or a true frame and panel end-cap. Many commercial products use end-caps for this reason...economy in the carcasses with the finish flexibility for each project.
Here's how I do it. Grab some cutoffs for samples. Go to the art supply store and buy a few bottles of artist's quality oil paints that are closest to the color you're trying to achieve. Also buy some mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil if you don't already have some. Then you basically mix the paints to get the color, add the BLO to get the transparency, and add the mineral spirits to get the consistency. A little tip when mixing colors is to never use black paint. Black will darken your colors, but it'll also mute them. That's rarely what you want. Instead, use a complimentary color to darken your color. So if it's kind of an orangey brown, use a dab of ultramarine blue to darken it. Keep track of how much of each color you use when mixing them up for the samples so you can mix it up again to make the big batch. If you need to store it and keep it fresh, put some saran wrap over the paint/stain to keep out any air and put it in the refrigerator. You can store it for several months that way.
I'm not going to lie, it's not easy to pull off. I suggest mixing very small test batches, because you'll likely throw out several attempts as you discover you're just not going to get there with the colors you started off with. And I recommend using high quality artist's colors, which are usually more costly, but have just one or two pigments that are easier to pronounce, versus stuff with synthetic pigments, as synthetic pigments tend to fade quicker and don't get as rich in color. But, if you're patient, you can usually stumble across the right mixture to nail the color, dead on. It can just take a long time and a lot of bottles of paint.
Alternatively, you can try the same basic idea, but buy several cans of similar looking stain. Or you might get lucky and find a single can of stain matches it really closely, as is. It's easier to get really close because you don't have to mess with ratios of paint, oil, and thinner. Just ratios of two or more cans of stain. However, you're less likely to nail it, dead on. But then again, if you're staining two separate pieces of wood, often times close enough works, as the light will be different on different sides of the finished piece, so you can usually get away with a little variation.
These are cabinets I'm making for the wife's craft room. I'm a little more concerned about the finish than she is, so I'll have to go with her out of ease. This is the first time I've used 2 sided prefinished plywood. The next time I build cabinets I'm going to use single sided prefinished, skin the outside and finish to my liking.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Sand the outside surfaces and glue on whatever veneer you want. Then finish everything to your liking.
John