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The first 2 pictures show where my gouge is currently at the Skil wheel is the first wheel I tried it says it is an aluminum oxide wheel. The Kobalt wheel is the second wheel I tried. I thought the kobalt wheel was aluminum oxide but I don't see it saying aluminum oxide on it. Are the wheels I am using crap? I looked up the norton wheels and they are very expensive.
Good turning tools are pretty expensive also........you would be better off getting blue Norton 3x wheels [k grade] or CBN wheels and know that you are not taking temper out of your tools. I have seen high speed steel get the temper taken out.....some may disagree with that statement, but when I started turning, I used my high speed 6" grinder and grey wheels.........did not take me long to figure out I was grinding away tool steel way too much because the tool would no longer hold an edge like it did when it was new. I encourage you to get an 8" slow speed grinder and good wheels.......it hurts only when you first purchase, but it will save you money and give you better results in the long term.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Herd
I was thinking about maybe picking up the Delta 6" variable speed grinder that lowes has it says it will go as slow as 2,000 rpm but I can't find grinder wheels that are 6" in diameter 1/2" arbor and 3/4" thick. Would the Delta 8" grinder work well? it has 8" wheels 1/2" arbor and 1" thick wheels. The problem is the grinder is $120 which is a lot of money for me right now.
OK, first of all, none of what you have is crap. It may not be the top of the line but certainly functional to learn with. There is nothing wrong with the gray aluminum oxide wheels you have. They do need to be clean and true though. JKJ has some excellent advice about hardness. You just need to learn about using these tools together to get good results. Check out the videos from OneWay in the link. I should help get you going in the right direction.
https://oneway.ca/tutorials%20grinding%20jig
If you continue to have trouble come on back for more help.
You can make your setup work, but you probaby need some tutoring/mentoring from an experienced turner. If you do go to the expense of a new grinder, then by all means pick a slow speed/1725 rpm unit. 8" is better than 6" because it gives a better bevel, that is not so hollow ground as a 6" wheel will give your tools. While money is tight, get hooked up with a local turning club, or one nearest to you, and it will shave light years off your learning curve! You do not say where you are located in your posts, so if you can post your location, likely someone near you might respond, or we can help you find the nearest local AAW chapter, so you can find them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Herd
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/r...-speed-grinder
even better is this one
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/r...grinder-80-808
Don is correct in that none of what you have is "crap" and it's all satisfactory equipment. However, you have made yourself a bigger mountain to climb than if you had "better" equipment.
In the big picture, I think there is a lot to be gained by learning how to make what equipment you have work for you. The practice of repeated tinkering and problem solving will serve you very well in the future and make you a better turner and craftsman than if you just dropped $400 on a grinder, wolverine jig, and cbn wheels. Just my opinion....
There is great value in working through with what you have, but it will cost you some steel off your tools. And lots of time.... You will have to decide what's worth it to you. Most people prefer to "plug and play" or "paint by numbers" when it's just a hobby, but always remember it's possible to create some amazing things with rudimentary tools.
For me, (and I'm in the minority, for sure) a huge part of the enjoyment of turning is in the problem solving. I enjoy the challenges and roadblocks and finding ways around them. If I was a production turner, I would not have this luxury. You can almost always buy your way out of a problem with a new piece of equipment/tool, but it's not necessary.
If you're interested, there is a Rikon 8" grinder on sale at woodcraft for $99 right now. It comes with two white norton-style wheels (60 grit and 120 grit). If you have a store near you, it could be worth a trip.
Hey, you are not in the minority in the circle of turners I like to hang out with and whom I respect the most! Some of these guys are amazing. And even with a shop full of first class tools there is ALWAYS that problem that no magic bullet in the kit will solve. Well said.Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold Balzonia
JKJ
So I have ready everyones posts since my last post. I watched the videos on the one way system. Starting to believe all I need is some guidance and practice and that my tools are fine like a few of you have said. I went out to the garage and back to the grinder and worked on grinding my tool and trying to get the shape right. after doing so. I tried turing this small, green, ash bowl I started turning the other day. After really focusing on the shape of the gouge on the grinder the tool did seem to cut a bit better. So I am thinking i just need to have the right shape. I have attached pictures of the current grind on my gouge. its still discolored on the tips but people have been saying that wont hurt the HSS. Pictures from left to right, first is the left side of the gouge, then the center of the gouge, then the right side of the gouge. I feel that the right side of the gouge is going more straight back like the grind on a spindle roughing gouge. where as the left edge is more slanted going down in the direction of the handle. I am assuming the left side looks more accurate because this is a bowl gouge and not a spindle roughing gouge. is the reason for the different angle on the edges because of set up or operator error? I have also attached some pictures of the bowl I have finished. The bowl is not sanded or anything because its worthless it has a crack in it and can't be saved but worked for practice. Based on how the bowl looks does it look like the gouge is working right? I definitely need more practice making bowls as this was my first. Oh and to answer someone's question I am from syracuse or central New York.
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It looks as if you are not grinding the wings, and have a pretty shallow grind on that gouge, more like a spindle gouge instead of a bowl gouge. Look up Doug Thompson's youtube sharpening video....he owns Thompson Lathe Tools, and that should get you on the right track.
I watched that video and adjusted the vari grind attachment and put a new grind on my gouge. My cell phone wouldn't focus on the gouge for some reason so I had to take the picture on my laptop I hope you can see enough. Is this a better grind?
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looks a good bit better. Try to see if it cuts better for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Herd
I just noticed that the bevel extends down towards the handle slightly more on the left side then on the right? why is this so and will it effect how the tool works?
You simply leaned the tool over farther on one side....it will be fine, and next time just try to sharpen both sides to the same stopping point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Herd
Adam - the bevel is slightly longer on one side simply because it was on the grinder a fraction of a second longer than on the other side. The bevel is used as a reference - so it should not interfere with your cutting action unless it is so long as to prevent the cutting edge from engaging the wood. A lot of us grind the heel portion of the bevel away - gives us more clearance and less chance of bruising the wood.
Adam - I advocate the use of 2x6 material for starting out since it can often be picked up as scrap or reasonable if you have to purchase a 8' board. The 2x6 is really only 1-1/2 x 5-1/2" but that gives you plenty of material to learn the tool control and sharpening required. Most 2x6 is either pine or spruce and fairly soft but has definite grain pattern that helps you learn about wood also. Being only 1-1/2" thick, it helps prevent you from having the steep side wall that has the greater problem and requires a different grind (bottom feeder) gouge. Believe me, you will definitely see the difference between sharp and almost sharp tools on the 2x6 lumber with end grain tearout.