Thinking about LV bevel up smoother

This may sound stupid, but there’s days my fibbertygibbet brain just can’t seem to process how to use a bevel down plane. Not sure what the disconnect is, but I’m like a donkey trying to use a spinning wheel. I’ve thought about getting a bevel up smoother as it is easier to set up (I think). That leads me to the thoughts… Which one of the three? Is it worth it?

Have you considered if you'd like to be honing somewhere at 60 degrees,
and the grinding involved when such a steep edge needs to be freshened up?

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Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins

This may sound stupid, but there’s days my fibbertygibbet brain just can’t seem to process how to use a bevel down plane. Not sure what the disconnect is, but I’m like a donkey trying to use a spinning wheel. I’ve thought about getting a bevel up smoother as it is easier to set up (I think). That leads me to the thoughts… Which one of the three? Is it worth it?

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The use of a bevel up versus bevel down plane will not be much different. The biggest difference will be dealing with the chip breaker. Though there is some fiddly bits about setting the chip breaker for the ideal result, it can be set back from the edge ~1/32" and work fine for most cases.

Since you are considering a bevel up smoother, my suggestion of which to purchase would be based on practicality. The smoother with the 2-1/4" plane would allow changing blades with the low angle jack and the bevel up joiner.

Just my Attachment 517453.

jtk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tom Trees

Have you considered if you'd like to be honing somewhere at 60 degrees,
and the grinding involved when such a steep edge needs to be freshened up?

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Not sure what you mean.

Tony, if you are finding setting up a BD plane difficult, and you work with wood where there is a threat of tearout, then a BU plane may be your answer. Both BD and BU planes have their pros and cons, and the pro with the BU plane is that it can be nearly as effective with planing into the grain as a well set up BD plane (i.e. closed up chipbreaker).

The down sides with a BU plane is (1) You mostly will prefer fine to medium thick shavings, and not very thick shavings (although it can do it), and (2) sharpening is more fussy - time is reduced by using secondary micro bevels and precision is best aimed for with a honing guide. If you sharpen anyway with a honing guide, then the latter is not an issue.

Please avoid using blades sold with a high angle bevel. they will be difficult to camber. My preference is a 25 degree primary bevel given a 50 degree micro secondary bevel along with a camber. Easy peesy.

The Veritas Large BU smoother is simply wonderful, and I have found it extremely reliable. It is a go to when very fine shavings are needed (such as when there is a final adjustment on a show surface). It is capable of the highest quality surface.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jim Koepke

The use of a bevel up versus bevel down plane will not be much different. The biggest difference will be dealing with the chip breaker. Though there is some fiddly bits about setting the chip breaker for the ideal result, it can be set back from the edge ~1/32" and work fine for most cases.

Since you are considering a bevel up smoother, my suggestion of which to purchase would be based on practicality. The smoother with the 2-1/4" plane would allow changing blades with the low angle jack and the bevel up joiner.

Just my Attachment 517453.

jtk

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‘I have a bu jack. There are days that I can use it when I just can’t seem to get either my LN #4/7 or even my LV custom 5.5 to take a shaving. I could, of course, use it as a smoother but it’s a bit long.

‘’As far as mixing blades, my la jack is Lie Nielsen.

Thanks Derek for setting me straight on your setup, as I had the wrong impression that you were honing at 60 degrees.

Tom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Derek Cohen

Tony, if you are finding setting up a BD plane difficult, and you work with wood where there is a threat of tearout, then a BU plane may be your answer. Both BD and BU planes have their pros and cons, and the pro with the BU plane is that it can be nearly as effective with planing into the grain as a well set up BD plane (i.e. closed up chipbreaker).

The down sides with a BU plane is (1) You mostly will prefer fine to medium thick shavings, and not very thick shavings (although it can do it), and (2) sharpening is more fussy - time is reduced by using secondary micro bevels and precision is best aimed for with a honing guide. If you sharpen anyway with a honing guide, then the latter is not an issue.

Please avoid using blades sold with a high angle bevel. they will be difficult to camber. My preference is a 25 degree primary bevel given a 50 degree micro secondary bevel along with a camber. Easy peesy.

The Veritas Large BU smoother is simply wonderful, and I have found it extremely reliable. It is a go to when very fine shavings are needed (such as when there is a final adjustment on a show surface). It is capable of the highest quality surface.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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Generally, I do prefer the bevel downs. I wish I could figure out why when my brain isn’t working that they are such a puzzle (and my LN LA is useable).

Tony, here is my Veritas Large Smoother (modified sides, so it looks different) planing HIGHLY interlocked grain AND into the grain ...

https://i.postimg.cc/KYTZBd8r/Verita...l-331c1e58.jpg
https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https:...b-b84897748dc3

Look at this reference page for comparisons: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...omPlanes4.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

What is the issue with your smoother?

If you set the cb back to about 1/32" and plane with the grain, tear out is not an issue.

If you need practice, planing edges has a greater chance of success than planing surfaces. Planing wider edges gives you more experience.

When practicing planing wide surfaces: shorter lengths, avoidance of thin boards and a slightly cambered blade ensures success.

Once you get good results, you can try moving your cb closer to the edge, reducing the camber of your blade, plane longer boards.

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You're using A2 blades, aren't you? Are you getting them sharp easily?

Only one of my planes has a fancy iron, a #3 with a PM-V11. It's not as easy to sharpen as my regular high carbon steel irons, but it gets sharp. I don't care much for it at the moment, since I get by with regular planes.

I'm not sure if you can buy yourself into a better performing plane, I believe your LN jack is capable of being set up as a smoother due to its high tolerances. You have what you need to figure out if this type of plabe is for you.