Dyed Fiddle Maple Cored Bowls

Here's two more micro waved natural edge bowls that were doubled dyed. After turning and drying in the microwave I covered the surface with black dye. Using 150 through 600 grit paper, I sanded back the surface to revile the harder areas that didn't absorb the dye as deeply. This was followed with Behlans colonial maple alcohol stain. That was lightly steelwooled to give some transparency to the finish. Bark was painted black to emphasize the inner bowl. The smaller bowl was cored from the larger one.


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Nothing quite as striking as beautifully dyed curly maple! Nicely done, Bob.

Very pretty--wood, bowl cutting and finishing--like John I love wiggle wood maple dyed. Might try sanding back the color coat for more grain pop. Also try sanding sponges any time you are working down any type of finish--much less scratching--good work.

Very nice bowls, love the texture, but I think maple looks best kept natural.

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Originally Posted by Robert Willing

Very nice bowls, love the texture, but I think maple looks best kept natural.

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Like this? Same log, just oil and lacquer.


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They all are very striking. Beautifully done.

I like them all, dyed or not.
BTW, i'm seriously considering a coring system, but am undecided on which one to get. From my research there are pros and cons for each system. Which system do you have and how do you like it?

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Originally Posted by daryl moses

I like them all, dyed or not.
BTW, i'm seriously considering a coring system, but am undecided on which one to get. From my research there are pros and cons for each system. Which system do you have and how do you like it?

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I use the McNaughton. It is like learning to throw a curve ball, but once you understand the trajectory of the blades it is a very versatile tool.

YES those show more character and look more natural.

Thanks for that. The McNaughton is a front runner for me so far. It's a toss up between it and the Oneway. Either one has pros and cons according to reviews.

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Originally Posted by daryl moses

Thanks for that. The McNaughton is a front runner for me so far. It's a toss up between it and the Oneway. Either one has pros and cons according to reviews.

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I wish there was a carbide tip like something on the Hunter tools. I'm on my second standard medium curve tool. That one is used 90% of the time. Once the tool is sharpened a number of times, the kerf becomes more narrow and can bind more. A diamond hone can save the edge rather than re grinding.

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Originally Posted by Bob Bergstrom

I wish there was a carbide tip like something on the Hunter tools. I'm on my second standard medium curve tool. That one is used 90% of the time. Once the tool is sharpened a number of times, the kerf becomes more narrow and can bind more. A diamond hone can save the edge rather than re grinding.

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Bob, does the McNaughton have a replaceable cutter or is the cutter part of the curved tool? I noticed that the Oneway uses replaceable cutters which would be a plus for me. The curved blades are pricey though, I doubt that I would use their largest one as I very seldom turn anything much over 16".

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Originally Posted by Bob Bergstrom

I wish there was a carbide tip like something on the Hunter tools. I'm on my second standard medium curve tool. That one is used 90% of the time. Once the tool is sharpened a number of times, the kerf becomes more narrow and can bind more. A diamond hone can save the edge rather than re grinding.

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Did you ask Mike Hunter? I know he's thought about it.

From looking at my McNaughton I think it would be possible to weld/braze new ends on the knives then shape and harden them.

JKJ

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Originally Posted by John K Jordan

Did you ask Mike Hunter? I know he's thought about it.

From looking at my McNaughton I think it would be possible to weld/braze new ends on the knives then shape and harden them.

JKJ

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John I have not asked. I brought two new knives so it not on my priority list. It would seem someone could take off the steelite tip, drill and tap it to receive a Hunter bit.