Which Plane - 5 or 5 1/2

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Originally Posted by Jim Koepke

It is difficult to respond to this without a bit more information. Do you have a #6, #7 or #8 sized plane? My #6 gets used more than my #5-1/2. Perhaps if it needed to be carried around in a tool box the #5-1/2 would be taken instead of a #6.

My suggestion would be to acquire something different than what is already in your kit.

If you are going for a smoother a #4-1/2 would be more in line with the purpose.

In reality, any plane can be used for smoothing, some are more adept at the job.

Since "what is most prevalent from the local sawyer" is oak and walnut my guess is you are not near enough to come by and give the different planes a test drive.

If you do not already have a #3 or #4, my suggestion would be to get one of those for your final smoothing needs. A #4-1/2 may be more in line if you do a lot of large panels or wide boards. Depending on the job at hand my #3 and #4 usually see more use than my #4-1/2. Often, especially later in the day, my #3 gets used more than my #4.

It was hard for me to decide, so when they were found on rust hunts, at least one of each size was acquired. It isn't necessary, but I wouldn't have it any other way.

jtk

jtk

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I have a #3 that needs attention #4, #5, #6, #7. The first planes I bought were the #3 and #5 from the auction site. They were cheap and I didn't really know what to look for so those are the weakest performers. I really enjoy the #6 and use it more than the #7 unless I'm dealing with long boards. I also have a LN no 62, but I never have connected with the bevel up design. I like the lateral adjustment of the bevel down planes.

The more I read and think on it, your comment about the #6 seeing more use than the 5 1/2 seems to make sense to me.

I'm in Oklahoma City, so it would be quite a trip to test drive the planes :)

The 4 1/2 is starting to sound better and better or just getting a really nice #5.

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Originally Posted by steven c newman

Simple test...pick a #5 and a 5-1/2 up, one in each hand....see how long before one is set back down....

Momentum might be nice....until you have to drag the plane BACK to the start point...after awhile, that extra weight gets old.

Attachment 365751
Of the four #5 sized planes, this one has the most camber, as it is used for this sort of thing..
Attachment 365752
There are also two Stanleys, each a little less camber, one having none. There is a Millers Falls No. 14 that barely has any. My #5-1/2 has no camber, nor does the #6 or #7...Then there is Mister Everything....Millers Falls No. 11, a #5-1/4 sized plane. Small jack, light and nimble, no camber. Smoothing is done with either the Stanley #4c, or one of the smaller Millers Falls planes.

I used what best suits the size of the work being done.

A small smoother can "turn on a dime" to deal with reversing grain.....a No. 5-1/2 cannot. Almost like trying to spin the USS Iowa around at speed....compared to a Coast Guard Cutter...

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The points are well made. I'm leaning away from the 5 1/2 at this point because for what I do, I don't think it will see much use and I already have a nice #6 that performs really well.

I hadn't thought about difficult grain situations; I agree. For that, it seems a standard #4 would be the ticket.

From what I read, I don't think you need another plane. Use the money for something usefull, I'd say, how about a new iPhone?

I've never understood the jack of all trades moniker for the #5. It's great as a roughing plane ( light weight but still some length to keep the boards straightish), but not so great for anything else. Too short for a jointer, too long for a smoother.

I like the versatility of a number 5. You mention that the one you have is one of your weakest performers. Perhaps a better number 5 solves your problems. I have maybe 5 or 6 different number 5 planes. I use two of them and the other 3 or 4 gather dust because they just don't work very well. I think you have a good spectrum of bench planes and now you need to focus on getting them in shape or replacing them, not necessarily adding to your assortment of sizes.

A 5 is long for a smoother, so bear in mind that you will need to be working with very flat lumber in order to get a perfect finish. A 4 or 4-1/2 makes a better smoother.

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Originally Posted by Pat Barry

I like the versatility of a number 5. You mention that the one you have is one of your weakest performers. Perhaps a better number 5 solves your problems. I have maybe 5 or 6 different number 5 planes. I use two of them and the other 3 or 4 gather dust because they just don't work very well. I think you have a good spectrum of bench planes and now you need to focus on getting them in shape or replacing them, not necessarily adding to your assortment of sizes.

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Being very new to handplanes, can I ask why the 3 or 4 don't work well? Are there specific reasons, things maybe I should look out for when acquiring planes, or is it more a matter of not having tuned them up fully?

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Originally Posted by Nathan Johnson

Being very new to handplanes, can I ask why the 3 or 4 don't work well? Are there specific reasons, things maybe I should look out for when acquiring planes, or is it more a matter of not having tuned them up fully?

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In my instance, both my #3 and #4 are auction site finds. The iron on my #3 isn't flat and the cutting edge looks pretty bad. I guess the previous owner was pretty hard on it. In addition, the chip breaker doesn't mate well with the iron and chips work their way between the iron and chip breaker. I haven't yet spent the time or money on new components to get it right - mostly because I've been working on my #4. Overall, I am pretty happy with my #4 after upgrading the iron and chip breaker and spending some time with it to tune it up.

Having said that, I can't help but wonder what it's like to work with a new premium plane. Boil it all down, and this curiosity is probably what's mostly driving my desire to pickup a new plane.

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Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe

A 5 is long for a smoother, so bear in mind that you will need to be working with very flat lumber in order to get a perfect finish. A 4 or 4-1/2 makes a better smoother.

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Starting to lean towards a 4 1/2. Brian, which would you give the edge to - the 4 or 4 1/2?

I own a 4 and use it a lot, I have Japanese planes for when I want to take a wider shaving.

For panel work I usually prefer a narrower plane, so often enough I will use my 4 or a thin (54mm?) Japanese plane. In other words I would go for the 4 given the identical set of choices a second time around.

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Originally Posted by JohnM Martin

Lowell, thats interesting. For most people, isn't it the other way around? Prices seem to sure seem higher for Bedrocks, but maybe there is something I don't understand about plane prices. What is it about the Bailey that you prefer?

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The no.3 is a neat small package to use, it makes translucent shavings and smooths very well. I just like the balance of the plane. It is more narrow than my bedrocks.
I will never dispose of my Bedrocks. They have mystic and the shape is good. I have never seen a 603 Bedrock. If I ever held one, I might prefer it.
I just feel the Bedrocks, while visually attractive don't provide any real advantage.
I have never seen a 5 1/2 Bedrock. If I did, I might want it.

The 5 1/2 is very close to a no.6.

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Originally Posted by JohnM Martin

In my instance, both my #3 and #4 are auction site finds. The iron on my #3 isn't flat and the cutting edge looks pretty bad. I guess the previous owner was pretty hard on it. In addition, the chip breaker doesn't mate well with the iron and chips work their way between the iron and chip breaker. I haven't yet spent the time or money on new components to get it right - mostly because I've been working on my #4. Overall, I am pretty happy with my #4 after upgrading the iron and chip breaker and spending some time with it to tune it up.

Having said that, I can't help but wonder what it's like to work with a new premium plane. Boil it all down, and this curiosity is probably what's mostly driving my desire to pickup a new plane.

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You could be amazed at how a little effort to tune up your planes will do to improve their performance.

Type > from junker to jointer < into Google and it will lead you to this:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ker-to-Jointer

A ways down in the thread is information on how to deal with a chip breaker that doesn't mate well with the iron. Of course in your case it may be due to the out of flat blade. You may have to acquire a replacement to get it to work well if it can not be remedied with sandpaper and stones.

jtk

You seem to have a nice selection. Don't feel you need a 5 1/2, but if you fancy trying one then go for it. Don't expect a quantum leap in your woodworking if you do decide to purchase one.

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Originally Posted by steven c newman

I have a #5-1/2 AND a #6c....both Stanleys...along with about 4 No. 5s.....

The #6 is more of a small jointer/ Fore plane. 3" longer than the same width 5-1/2. depends on how much weight you feel like pushing around. Try them out for a few hours....see which you pick up the next time....


The #5-1/2 was known as the Jumbo Jack.....

The #4-1/2? Nothing more than an overweight, fat #4. Same blade as the Jumbo Jack. Or the #6, or the #7...A #3 or #4 is much more agile, and a lot less tiring to use.

After a full day of using the larger planes...a #3 feels kind of nice....at least my shoulders think so....YMMV

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When I have a full day of work with long planes I quickly gravitate to Wood body planes.

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Originally Posted by JohnM Martin

I'm looking to purchase my first premium plane and upgrade my old bailey stanley no 5 with either a new LN no 5 or 5 1/2. Deciding to "upgrade" because [snip] 2) I would like to see what its like to work with a good high quality plane.

[snip]


I know a lot of this is personal preference and everyone is different, but I'm just curious what everyone thinks.

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As others have said (very politely), a Bailey #5 is, in fact, a "premium plane" when properly fettled. From your comments, it seems to me you haven't done a lot to get it right; if your blade edge is rough and abused by a prior owner, it clearly needs to be ground and sharpened properly. If the blade's not flat, you need to flatten it. In a very large number of cases, these two steps will turn a dirty old clunker into a fine worker. Then cleaning and spiffing up can make things look better and often work better. To go spend a substantial chunk of change on a new plane because you want a "premium plane" suggests to me that you're not ready to recognize the jewel you already have - once it's tidied up.

The idea to turn a decent #5 needing some attention into a scrub plane prematurely would, in my view, be wasteful.

5 1/2 is a great plane for your shooting board. Check out some of the Rob Cosman stuff.