Depends who is giving the advise. LN seem to offer the user the choice to experiment with both options. A clear indication that not all timbers and grain types will react favourably with a turned hook. No different to that opinion being reflected in the 2004 thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Normand Leblanc
Well spotted Stewie ... but that was 14 years ago. Time moves on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson
It would also be interesting to link to the UK forum, where this same thread is running. Pity we cannot do so, as the commentary there is the same as here: hooks rule.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I realize that I am waaaaay late to the party (as usual), but here’s my .02
old Stanley 112 (a type 1 according to Mr Leach) with a Hock iron. I like the iron because its stiffness seems to help eliminate chatter but it is still soft enough to drawfile & turn a nice hook. When I first tried to use this tool, I did so with no hook a la Lie Nielsen and got very poor results.
Attachment 376573
Unlike the Stanley #80 the #81 Scraper Plane was never supplied with a thumbscrew adjuster to camber the blade. After tapping a new threaded hole, my #81 now has that additional feature.
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...pswhnhvoft.jpg
What does that teach you, Stewie?
Regards from Perth
Derek
For the benefit of other members; as a firm request from the site moderators, I am not allowed to respond directly to any posts from DC.
DC is well aware of that fact.
Stewie, it is 2018. How about starting the year with a clean slate? Shake hands?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Very interesting! I have a #81 and even with the most perfect of hooks am only able to peel off the very thinnest of shavings. Setting it for a more aggressive cut doesn't seem to work out well without blade camber. My understanding of the tool was that Stanley intended it to be the kindest and gentlest of scrapers for delicate work, stringing and the like. I'd consider your modification, but I keep 4 sharp #80 at the ready for more agressive work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson
I bought a 112 and a LV O-1 blade some time ago and it has confounded me to say the least. I did pull it back off the shelf because of this thread and have decided to give it another go. This thread has been encouraging and I am now getting shavings more to those like Brian Z. shows above.
The wood is oak and hard maple.
In reversing grain areas it is working to an acceptable level and I am satisfied I could use this tool in difficult areas.
I think my biggest problem is/was not realizing how sensitive it is to angle adjustment.
However, should I be able to adjust it to see shavings such as Stewie is showing?
Is this a tool that is worth spending alot of time learning to use or would it be more efficient to pick up an 80 or 81 and walk away.
Up to now I am picking up a card scraper or sandpaper and I want to avoid sanding as much as possible.
My ultimate goal is,was and always will be to turn out useful objects made of wood. I am not interested in collecting tools or sharpening paraphernalia.
Bob, with the #112, you are able to adjust the scraping angle (unlike the fixed angle of the #80/81). So, simply hold the blade as if it were a cabinet scraper, and take some shavings. The angle you are successful is the angle you will set the #112.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I think there are two things that prevent people from using scraping type planes successfully. One is understanding how to prep the edge and turn a burr. Second, and one that is often overlooked, is setting the iron with two much exposure. Most people dont have the upper body strength to press down hard enough with a plane like the 112 to allow for an aggressive cut, especially when the iron is sticking out too much. That is the reason I like the #12 much better. That T handle arrangement allows you to press the plane down very easily with your entire upper body and really take off some stock. Properly sharpened and set, you can really get after it. The 112 is much harder to use like this in my experience and requires a much more careful approach in setting the iron. The #12 is often overlooked and is a great tool.
Pete
You should be able to get plane-like shavings from the 112 (though for most real work you'd go lighter than that).Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Leistner
Posting mine again:
Attachment 376912'
The shaving on the left is ~2 mils, the shaving on the right is <1 mil.
I actually don't have a lot of experience with the 112 as I now prefer to use conventional planes with close-set cap irons in most situations where the scraper plane might be an option. I also didn't fiddle with the angle at all before making those. They key is to have a consistent process for burring the scraper, so that the cutting angle doesn't change. If you can do that then you don't need to worry much about the angle adjustment in the plane. Just find the right setting once, and it will remain "good" for as long as you keep burring the scraper the same way.
I guess the message that a bunch of us are trying to send is that consistently and smoothly burring a scraper is a foundational woodworking skill, that you must learn for good results. Once you have learned it basically all types of scrapers and scraping planes will work much better than before.
Thank you for the replies. I think I am doing it wrong: all of the above. I have used a card scraper for years and I thought the 112 would just be easier on the fingers. I just have to be more careful and consistent when I pick it up. I'll get it soon enough. I will also keep an eye out for a 12 and try it. Thank you again.
Patrick; that shaving on the left looks more like a smoothing plane shaving than a scraper plane shaving.
Stewie;
https://sawmillcreek.org/attachment....2&d=1515286605