Tried to fit my large scraper plane blade in the LN regular jaws, and it won't quite open up wide enough.
I don't see on LN site which jaws it requires; anybody know?
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Tried to fit my large scraper plane blade in the LN regular jaws, and it won't quite open up wide enough.
I don't see on LN site which jaws it requires; anybody know?
Or you could ask LN.
My thought is a scrapper blade doesn't go in a chisel or plane blade holder. Wouldn't the geometry be all wrong?
jtk
Oddly, the large scraper plane LN#112 cannot be sharpened using their own honing guide. The cutter is too wide for the honing guide. Adding another 1/4" of threaded screw would have allowed it, but then the threaded stud would have interfered with other honing operations. I use one of the cheap side-clamping guides that they sell to hold the #112 blade. Personally, I would have preferred the longer threaded piece since I don't rock the guide to radius my cutting edges.
Thanks Mike-that's what I suspected.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Brady
For curiosity-what up w the extra 1/4" interfering w other operations?
You mean tilting to take corners off?
Well, it does fit the LV, as well as the cheap eclipse guide.
D
Right, David. I mean't that it might interfere with a radius edge or corner on the blade. Also, if you use the recommended 45 degree bevel on that scraper blade it is possible for the guide to make contact with the stone (not good!). I had to modify the phoney Eclipse jig for that reason ( use Deneb's alteration video). The simple answer is to call LN and ask them what's up? It could be an error. I had to exchange two sets of jaws because they were off-spec.
I have an email request for info going to LN tomorrow, to see what they say about this question.
It would seem to be pretty straight forward to do another pair of jaws with edges set back outside the flushed mounting screws...probably could even be set up to use the mortising jaws measurements/height-over-base to avoid having another setting jig. That said, I leave the jigs set up for three sets of jaws (standard, mortise, and long)...another
gotta have' gets pricey when you add the $35 for jaws to the $100 for a stripped jig.
I received this response from Lie-Nielsen, regarding fitting their #112 plane blade in their honing guide:
"The No. 112 blade will definitely fit in the honing guide, though not as it came to you. The brass nut (the one you hold to open or close the guide) is removable. After backing it off a bit you can then extend the guide to its full width – wide enough to accommodate the 112 blade. Please note: The nut is attached reverse-threaded, so when removing it you will need to turn it clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten."
Seems straight-forward to me. I will give it a try and report back.
That works...tried it...just keep the screwdriver handy to tighten. Not in the directions, so a note to LN is probably in order. Thanks, Mike!
I'm going to have LN look at mine....can't get the knob off and I don' want to bugger it up.
They also commented that that the rod couldn't be any longer than it is. The honing guide is really well done overall and beautifully made.
I called them just now, before I saw Mike and Todd's posts.
The LN guy was, of course, super nice.
He said the same thing as in email to Mike.......I said-"I'm going to post this on a forum-is that what you would have me say?"
He then added.........all this was taken into consideration during R&D; there is a little bit of Lock-Tite in the brass nut threads, some folks use a heat gun. Will not harm the device.
Remember threads there are reversed.
Sat AM, that is what I'm going to do.
Thanks, D
What happened here was that I used a heat gun to loosen the lock-tite, and back off the knurled nut.
I put the large scraper blade in the device, and lock-tited the nut back on.
So, now, w no apparent ill effects, the guide accepts the largest blade that I have.
There must be a down-side; I just can't tell what it is (yet).
Thanks all, David
That blade has a 45 deg bevel (it's like a #80 that way) so in principle it could be honed in a guide as the OP suggests.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Koepke
Most similar scraping planes have irons soft enough to be filed and ductile enough to be burnished like regular scrapers. The Veritas and the Stanley #112 that was nominally the inspiration for the L-N are both that way. Unfortunately L-N apparently decided to "innovate" by making a *scraper* blade out of A2 at Rc62, if their website is to be believed. Look under "tool care" here. Assuming that page is correct and not a bogus cut 'n' paste from the bench planes, that seems bad in a few respects (how exactly does one draw a clean hook from steel that brittle and coarse-grained?), one of which being that it probably has to be worked on a stone instead of filed.
If I owned one of those I'd get a precision-ground sheet of blue-hard (Rc50) 1095 of the same thickness, and use that to fabricate a proper scraper blade.
To the OP and others with this plane: Can the blade be drawn with a (presumably carbide) burnisher, and if not do you use it without a hook? IMO the hook improves surface quality a lot by allowing the iron to cut rather than purely scrape, while still providing a steep "face" to break the chip and suppress tearout.
You did it just right David. LN should add this mod to the web page, but I doubt if they will.