Need advice on finishing drawer pullouts

I know this is a day project, if that, for a lot of you but it's much more than that for me. I've built some drawer pullouts for my wife's bathroom vanity from BB ply. I'm finally ready to get these things finished (topcoat) and installed. The drawer slides are already in the vanity so once this is done it's on to the next project!

Based on some advice here, I'm planning on using General Finishes High Performance Water Based Topcoat. I'm doing a small test on a piece of BB ply now. The instructions recommend a minimum of 3 coats, sanding with 300-400 grit sandpaper in between. First questions: Is this a good topcoat for me to be using for these bathroom vanity pullouts? Does 3 coats sound right? Is sanding with 340 grit after each coat sound right? After the final coat should I sand again and if so with what grit? If you don't like this finish please let me know why and what you'd recommend.

Attachment 353280

I have little to no GOOD experience with painting or applying topcoats. What is going to be the fastest method for me to apply the finish and still achieve good results? I'm not sure where/how to start. Should I do the inside of the drawers first? Last? Should I be applying the finish to each drawer in stages? It seems to me I have to do it in stages or I'll mess up the finish. How do you protect the finish (what do you set things on?) when you letting it dry? Are the cheap foam brushes from the big box stores good for applying this finish?

Attachment 353281

Thanks in advance!
Mike

I like water based finishes for drawers because there are no fumes that will linger when the drawers are closed. I put 2 coats on and then sand with 400 grit before putting on the final coat. I usually spray on if it is lacquer and wipe on if it is poly. I have no experience with General finishes. I would do the bottom and then put it up on something like blocks or painters triangles to finish the other side. You will never see the bottom.

I have made shop drawers with General Finishes High Performance. I prefer Satin. Depending on your drawer construction method, it would be easiest to prefinish the components before assembly. I did not do this. I finished after assembly and it makes it a little more difficult to not have build up in the corners and edges. It can be done. Just harder.

I found the made in china foam brushes at the big box store to be an absolute frustration. Handles come off, foam is floppy. Jen brand foam brushes are made in USA and available at Amazon and Jamestown distributors (I think). They are attached well to the handle, are made from better, stiffer, firmer foam, and have a plastic stiffener in the middle that is crucial.

Using Jen brand foam brushes and General High Performance Satin, it was dead simple to coat even assembled drawers.

If you get a run, a card scraper that is well sharpened will cut it right down. It cuts like a plastic with the card scraper. If you pre-finish before assembly, I think you will much less opportunity to create a run.

I did three coats. The sanding between coats was very light to remove any unevenness or dust nibs. 300 t0 400 sounds right. I don't think I sanded the final coat, but I can't remember. The material was baltic birch plywood and also some Columbia Purebond Birch Plywood with poplar core.

I was very pleased with the high performance satin. Gives a nice sheen without presenting an easily marred, or finger printed surface.

Don't forget to stir the can (not shake) to make sure all the ingredients are well mixed before using.

Cary,
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. Yeah, someone here mentioned the fumes before and that's the main reason I switched to the water based topcoat. I'll go with your suggestion of doing the bottom then turning it over and putting it on painter's triangles before apply the topcoat to the rest of each drawer.

Sean,
If I get too frustrated with the brushes I'll see if I can't find some of the Jen brand locally. As the pic shows, I'm using the Semi-gloss finish. Next time I need a new can I'll try the Satin. Thanks for the feedback!

Mike

I use Wooster foam brushes,the key is to load and layout on one pass.Also look at the edge of the brush make sure it's straight.And not missing any chunks.If you get lots of bubbles your brush need more finish.But don't worry you can pop them with the very tip of your brush.

Good luck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes

I use Wooster foam brushes,the key is to load and layout on one pass.Also look at the edge of the brush make sure it's straight.And not missing any chunks.If you get lots of bubbles your brush need more finish.But don't worry you can pop them with the very tip of your brush.

Good luck

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Andrew,
I assume "load and layout" means dipping the brush in to the paint can (load) and then in one continuous stroke apply the finish in the direction of the grain (layout)? These pullouts are 18" long so are you saying I should have enough finish on my brush to do that length in one pass? That's gonna take a few passes to get down. No where close to that right now but then I've only been testing the finish on a really short piece of BB ply. The cheap foam brushes I bought at HD are straight no missing chunks but I'll try the Wooster brush.

Thanks, Mike

Also try to hold the brush at the angle that's on the end.One straight pass.
Then the next one barely overlapping.It should make it they do hold alot.
Generals finish flows out nice and will level.Didnt seem that hard for me and I'm just a average woodworker finisher.
Good luck

Mike, I use the same finish for all the drawers I make, kitchen and bathroom. Your plans are spot on, don't sand the last coat. As others have said, Satin or even Matt is easier to finish as it won't show any unevenness. I use a Jen Manufacturing Foam Brush from Amazon. Cheap if you buy them in bulk and good quality. Don't brush out the finish or go back over areas that are drying. The videos on the General Finishes website are good for learning the right method. If you find the finish isn't flowing out well, just add a little water as per instructions and keep an eye on the temp/humidity

I've used that Wooster Brush. Home Depot or Lowes carries them. They work really well for GF HP as they also are made from better foam, have an internal plastic stiffner and the foam is attached well to the handle. They cost like $3.00 as oppossed to about $0.42 when you buy a box of 36 Jen brushes from Amazon.

But the brush is good and will get the job done.