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I am building a curved front makeup table for my wife that will have a concave front with three drawers. I’m looking for ideas on how to join the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes, especially on the outside edges of the outside drawers where the angles become significant. Here’s a sketch so you can see the current version of the design. Much appreciated!
Attachment 447321
I have attached curved fronts using pegged lapped joints. I cut a 1/8" or so deep rabbet in the back side of the drawer face, a complementary rabbet on the front edge of the drawer side and then assemble with glue. Once the the joint is stable, I drill 1/8" dowel holes parallel to the drawer face, and glue in pegs.
Attachment 447322
I like it, thanks Steve!
Dovetails -- hand-cut. Angled dovetails are more challenging than right-angle dovetails, but they're not impossible.
I agree, dovetails. Shouldn't be that hard to cut those dovetails. Because of the curve you want to make the tails short so that you don't go through the front with the sockets for the tails.
Mike
Kevin, the trick is to avoid having to dovetail into a curve. Square the section instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Perez
Have a look at this chapter in one of my builds for insights: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...tWeekend9.html
Test pieces ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu..._m42c1fe3b.jpg
All on the curve ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...l_23b3cc36.jpg
Here is a short video ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh4_...nel=DerekCohen
Regards from Perth
Derek
I get dovetails on the flush end, but what about the inside joint that doesn't meet flush with the end of the drawer face? I'd imagine some sort of sliding dovetail maybe?
Derek, that is fantastic info--thanks!
So, philosphically, and practically, why do dovetails? Hand cut blind dovetails are time consuming and challenging for most woodworkers even under the best circumstances, and doing them in this case is significantly more challenging. The pinned lap joint I proposed is every bit as strong, far easier to do, and if you take the time to place the pins the carefully and use wood that contrasts with the drawer sides and matches the drawer fronts, every bit as aesthetically pleasing when (rarely) the joints are exposed and seen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton
This is an honest question - what is the advantage gained from the extra effort in a blind dovetail in this situation?
Dovetails are mechanically strong independent of glue. And they demonstrate mastery of several woodworking processes. If I was making a piece of furniture that I expected to be a family heirloom, I'd use dovetails so that for the life of the piece, my family would see the dovetails and say, "Uncle Mike was a really talented woodworker.":)
Mike
Steve, I suggested dovetails because they would be stronger against racking in this drawer. If the drawer were riding on modem ball bearing slides, this wouldn’t be much of a concern. But the OP’s sketch suggests he’s going with traditional wood sliding on wood. With time, that sliding action may get balky. When somebody yanks on the drawer, they’re likely racking the drawer out of square, and putting weird stresses on the joinery. The thickness of the dovetailed parts helps the joint resist the stresses..
I admit I may be overdoing it here. I’m just trying to tell you why the dovetail approach appealed to me.
The inner joints in the outside drawers, as well as the center drawer joints, would be straight forward to do with sliding dovetails. I would redesign the outer joints of the two outside drawers to use sliding dovetails, too, and pad out the inside of the cabinet so they fit correctly.
John
Dovetailing the sides? This is easy-peasy ...
https://i.postimg.cc/bYgNf1Ns/curved-drawer.jpg
Self-explanatory?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Sliding dovetails are another option (dove tails on the drawer sides; dovetail slots on the drawer front, cut from the bottom using a dovetail router bit). I've used this method to connect convex drawer fronts.
Thank you everyone!