Upper Cabinet Divider

Recently completed a kitchen where the upper cabinet did not spec out a divider system though it was clear one would be required. The idea was that the client would choose from a selection of Hafele or Rev-a-Shelf or other system. After reviewing manufactured alternatives, the client asked if I could design something that would handle the "dividing" as well as make additional efficient use of the cabinet. The cabinet is quite tall (33") so there could easily be storage on top of the dividers. Possibly more than one shelf though I show just one.

This is what I came up with this morning in Sketchup. Idea would be to dado a top and bottom to accept 1/4" baltic birch with radiused edges. Top would be a shelf for large baking bins, and the dividers would be sized for flexibility. Thinking 3/4" baltic birch all sprayed before assembly with waterborne conversion varnish. One of the requests was to have the lower platform protrude a bit so that it functioned as a drop and skid zone for the heavier objects. The paint is getting damaged on the front of the face-frame from "dropping" heavier objects as they're lifted with one hand. The design shown has a 1-1/2" lip (both directions) but I'm thinking just a 3/4" thick lip protruding to the front of the cabinet (just behind the face-frame). The setback is required to service the hinges. What I would typically do with slides is make a folded pre-finished side shim ... and perhaps that is what I should do on both sides here as well to protect the doors. That would also make adding shelves up above easier as well, though it would cannibalize some of the space.

Love a review of the approach.

Here would be the appearance with the folded "shims" on the side. The advantage would be that items slid and and out of the cabinet would miss the open door butts, which would protect the doors from damage. It would also make putting the rack into the cabinet much much easier since there would be no wiggling around the face frame reveal (about 1/8" on each side) and no need to remove the hinge plates.

I use a similar technique with 3/8" or 1/2" sheet goods but make mine adjustable with "magic wire" like these - https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/1-...BoCqtsQAvD_BwE

There are other sources this is just the first link that came up when I typed in "magic wire". Never bought from these folks.

This way I only need to bore a series of holes in the top and bottom horizontals and slot the ends of the dividers (not all the way through to the front). I also add a scoop on the front edge of the partitions to allow easier grasp of the items in the cabinet. I think this way too, you could just add the top piece as a shelf (maybe on cleats now that the cabinet (appears to be) built - without needing to build a cabinet within the cabinet.

The idea of a raised floor to keep skid marks of the cabinet bottom is a good one. In that case another small inner cabinet would be easier. You could fix the two outside vertical partitions to provide the door clearance and then just add a series of adjustable/removable partitons set on the magic wire as needed.

Thanks Sam ... all good ideas. The thicker partitions also reduces any concern about warpage. Quarter inch sheets, even in baltic birch, are pretty flexible. half inch in pre-finished maple would allow edgebanding which reduces the need for finishing.

Bill, divisions 1/2" thick will look too heavy and take up heaps of space. 1/4" will be fine. They don't do much that will cause flexing to be a problem. Cheers

Basic unit in place (requires some nosing, finishing, etc.) ... thrilled client.