Live Edge Bar Design Questions

Hey guys new to the forum, have been lurking awhile and doing a lot of reading but this will be my first post. A little background, I am a novice woodworker, and have built a few small furniture items and tables and a few other things along the way.Really learning as I go, keeps me busy when I am not working or building custom fishing rods on the side.I am from upstate NY, so I obviously have some down time once the boat is stored for the season and the snow starts falling.That’s when the projects start, gotta do something to keep me busy.

I recently started a new project, as I just converted my garage to a man cave over the past year, and am in the process of building an 8 foot straight bar. I have basically finished framing everything out and am ready to move into the bar top application.That is where my questions really focus upon.For the bar top I am using an 8 foot Eastern White Pine live edge slab, that is 2 inches in thickness.The slab according to the sawmill has been air drying a few years now and is ready to go.
Question 1:
I noticed when I got the board home, it was in the back of my pickup baking in the 90 degree sun yesterday, and started to cup. My guess is the humidity and change in moisture in the air as it was stored inside.Is there anyway to reverse this cupping effect.Should I try to lay it in wet grass and allow the sun to reverse the effects on the convex side of the board?Any advice would be great?
Question 2:
I am trying to determine the best way to secure the slab to the frame. I want to make sure to take into account that the wood will have movement throughout the seasons, and would like to avoid any issues and allow for this movement.I was thinking of using a Heavy Duty Desktop Fastener (Figure 8 Fastener) and using this to attach the Pine Slab to the horizontal 2x4 frame.I am a bit concerned with the short screws, and was thinking of going to a 1” screw instead.Any thoughts?
Question 3:
Lastly, I was going to sand the slab down, and leave it unfinished, and apply a good two part self leveling epoxy as a flood coat, pretty familiar with Epoxy coats from my years with Fishing Rods. Question is, before I poor the flood coat, it says to seal the wood with a thin layer of epoxy brushed on.Do I need to do anything to the slab prior to this?An do you seal both sides of the slab? Do you think I would be better not using an epoxy and simply staining if the space is subject to big swings in temps and humidity?


I know it’s a lot of questions, and I hope I explained it good, or well enough. Hope you guys can help!Thanks again.

Answer 1. It isn't unusual for a board to cup when exposed to the hot sun for a significant period of time. A moisture meter would tell you if the board is in fact dried. I would recommend the purchase of one before you proceed to save time and aggravation later. Place the board in the sun with the other side up for the same length of exposure to reduce the cupping then store it so air can get equally to all sides until it is finished and installed.

Answer 2. A 2x4 is about 1-1/2" thick. Your pine slab is 2" thick you want at least 1" of screw thread into the wood top so you need screws that are at least 2-1/2" long. Don't use drywall screws. The wood will expand and contract across the width seasonally, so you should allow for that movement. Normally this is done by slotting the screw holes through your frame in the direction of movement.

Answer 3. I always finish wood on all sides with equal amounts of finish. At the very least apply a spar varnish or other alcohol resistant finish to the bottom side. Unless you are going for the rough saw wood look, sand the surface to at least 150 before finishing.

I agree with Lee. You won't go wrong following his instructions. Cheers

Awesome info, good news the slab is back to its normal shape, a few hours in the sun and the wood straightened back out.

I will most definitely use slotted screw holes on the frame, like that idea quite a bit. Do you recommend an expansion washer or just a regular washer with the screw.

Last, should I worry about filling small surface cracks or deformities like holes, again all surface not thru the wood, if I plan to flood coat with epoxy??? Not sure yet if I want to stain the wood, or leave natural.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jay Burns

Awesome info, good news the slab is back to its normal shape, a few hours in the sun and the wood straightened back out.

I will most definitely use slotted screw holes on the frame, like that idea quite a bit. Do you recommend an expansion washer or just a regular washer with the screw.

Last, should I worry about filling small surface cracks or deformities like holes, again all surface not thru the wood, if I plan to flood coat with epoxy??? Not sure yet if I want to stain the wood, or leave natural.

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Washers under the screw heads won't do any harm, but may not be needed if you use long screws to go through your frame. The screws will bend in the slots enough to accommodate the movement. I would make the screws just tight enough to hold the top in place. Some people fill the cracks with black epoxy to highlight them, others don't.

Last question, being this is a 2inch thick piece of Eastern White Pine, and being in the garage with swings in temps, I am worried that an Epoxy coating on the top and sealing the bottom wont allow the wood to have movement. Should I be concerned with this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jay Burns

... Should I be concerned with this.

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I'd be more concerned with family and guests being uncomfortable leaning on the live edge.

I agree, which is why I removed the bark on the edges. Wont have to worry about that anymore. At this stage just want to ensure the wood can move if I flood coat the top with an epoxy and seal the bottom. Attaching to frame with slotted screw holes, just worried the epoxy wont allow for movement.